How to Use Revival Spray for Handlebar Switch to Smoothly Restore its Function

If you're a low-end or old motorcycle owner, you've probably experienced this a few times, but the electrical switches don't respond. I'm sure you've had that experience.

When you enter a tunnel while touring, your headlights won't turn on or the blinker doesn't blink, etc. In particular, the horn, which is rarely used, does not respond to the push of a button in many cases. In such cases, it is important to know that you can use "contact revival spray" for switches to smoothly restore function.

Manipulate and rub together multiple times after spraying.

When you say "the left side of the blinker switch is unresponsive" or "the horn does not work", pressing the button several times will result in an interruption in the sound! The possibility of switch contact malfunction is high.

In such a case, take off the switch and spray some electrical contact cleaner or revival spray near the contact point, leave it for a while, and then press the button several times to make the contacts come together.

Contacts will corrode after a period of inactivity.

It's easy to use. In the case of a handle switch, open the housing, spray a bushel of revival spray toward the switch contacts and wait a while. After that, the malfunctioning switch is activated and the contacts are slid together for a cleanup.

Finally, air blow or parts cleaner and apply a very small amount of grease to the operating part of the switch (grease spray is easy to use). This is the kind of operating procedure you should be using.

If it's still unresponsive, let's check the wiring.

If you just can't respond. In some cases, wiring has been severed in the middle of the switch harness in the past due to forcible pulling of wires (with up handle or wide handle). Check the switching continuity with a tester beforehand, and if it still does not respond, remove the protective tape or cut the protective tube and visually inspect the "wiring code".

Even with the protective tape wrapped around it, you'll notice that the internal wiring coat is dirty. In some cases, dirt and debris that gets into the cords from driving in the rain can become rough and abrasive, damaging the cord clothing. In such cases, it is best to spray "Easy My Pet" and use a toothbrush to clean it.

The cause of the switching unresponsiveness was a "broken wire".

I removed the protective tape, cleaned the wiring cords with a toothbrush and wiped them down with a rag, and found a broken wire. For some reason, the wiring may have stuck out, or the wiring may have gotten caught in the parts due to driving vibration and broken. These parts are wiring repairs.

Insert the heat-shrinkable tube cut to an appropriate size, peel off the clothing at both ends of the wiring, and clamp the piled up wiring with a joint connector. A small amount of solder is applied to the conductors at both ends of the overlap, and after fixing the connectors, the solder is melted to achieve higher strength. Then, set the shrinkage tube in the connection and warm it up to protect the shrinkage.

Repair and improvement is possible without replacing it with a new harness

Even if you don't replace it with a new harness, you can still expose the main harness cords by removing the protective tape or removing the protective tubing so as not to damage the wiring. It is possible to detect the cause of the problem in advance by taking measures against the protruding part of the wiring or replacing the connectors with new ones for the parts that are severely corroded or discolored due to burning. Let's try it.

What happens when the horn is unresponsive?

First, let's inspect the horn itself. Turn on the main key, press the horn button and use the handle of a screwdriver to "knock down" the horn body! Let's hit it lightly, Debris from the resonance plate and resonator inside the horn is removed, and the poo-poo!!　It often starts ringing. If there is no change, remove the horn body from the motorcycle body and press the + button./Let's connect the temporary wires to the two terminals of the - and let's make instantaneous contact with the end of the wires to the battery terminals. You can also check the sound of the horn using this method of inspection.

If the horn body does not sound during a single inspection, there is a problem with the horn body. If you have adjustable bolts to adjust the resonance of the resonator plate (some types don't), try adjusting the adjustable bolts with the battery power connected. If the adjustment is poor, you can fix the adjustment bolt at the part that makes the sound better (use a lock nut to fix the adjustment bolt).

If there is no problem with the horn itself, then a bad horn switch contact or switch grounding is likely the cause. In such a case, you can use the switch contact revival spray (available from various manufacturers) to remove corrosion and dirt from the switch contacts, and then restore them after air blowing. Also, at this point, is the horn and other switches functioning? It's best to check continuity between the terminals with a tester.

If continuity is not achieved at the coupler contacts despite switch care using contact revival spray, it may be that the wiring cord is broken in the middle of the switch harness. In many cases, the harnesses have been pushed and pinched when the steering wheel is in operation and crushed when the steering wheel is replaced or when the gas tank is removed.

Also, the switch harness is shortened by replacing it with an up-handed one, which can cause it to be pulled forcibly and break the wire. This time, I removed the harness protection tape and checked the condition of the cord, and found a broken cord. It was repaired with a connection gibbet (or direct soldered connections) and all switching functions were restored. When wiring repairs are made, it is important to ensure that the connections are protected so that problems do not recur.