Trying to start the engine of an abandoned car!!Gasoline condition is the key.!?

The Honda Cabra was impressive in that it was covered in sand and dust and had a dirty body. However, the base condition was better than expected. As long as the engine can be started, the tires are still in good shape and the tread pattern is still soft, so it won't be long before the machine is back on the road. Here is our attempt to start the engine."I haven't driven it in a while and it's been starting badly. ......I have experience withStart-up and maintenance procedures for all bikesI'll give you a lecture on

Fuel = gasoline can be seen and smelled.!!

Gasoline for bikes that have not been ridden for a while is usually expired.!?If the smell is so strong that it is peculiar to gasoline rottenness When there is a strong smell peculiar to gasoline rottenness, thorough cleaning in the tank and overhaul of the carb are indispensable. If there is a smell peculiar to gasoline deterioration, it is considered that the gasoline should be replaced and the inside of the carb should be cleaned. Even if the smell is okay, replace all gasoline that has weak volatility, i.e., gasoline that does not give off a cool sensation when touched with the fingertips. Be careful of gasoline that remains in the fuel cock or the float chamber of the carburetor. If you turn off the cock and drain the gasoline in the float chamber before you stop riding, you may find that you don't need to do much work to revive the engine. The cock and the inside of the carb are only a small amount of gasoline left in the carb, so they are easily altered = they often become sloppy and varnish-like. Although the volatility of this Supercabra was clearly reduced, there was almost no characteristic rotten smell, and the inside of the carb was maintenance free. However, there was some residual gasoline in the float chamber, so we were a little concerned. So, I drained all the old gasoline and filled the tank with new gasoline. After setting the fuel cock to the reserve position, I left it for a while and drained out a lot of gasoline that fell from the drain bolt of the float chamber. As a result, the function as a carburetor could be almost recovered by only this procedure. Lucky!!!

Drain residual gasoline from the cab drain and supply fresh gas

Many 4-stroke engine carburetors are equipped with drain bolts for maintenance purposes (some older carbureted models do not have drain bolts due to environmental concerns). If the drain bolt is loosened and residual gasoline flows out of the tube, it is relatively easy to start the engine. This is because it is unlikely that the inside of the float chamber is excessively dirty. On the other hand, if not even a drop of gasoline flows out of the tube, you may have drained the gas before you stopped riding.?Or the residual gasoline has become a varnish-like sludge.?We think it's one of those things. In this case, a certain amount of residual gasoline was found, so this is "going to work out!!I'm not sure.

Easy disassembly by blocking the flow with a hose stopper

The tool that crushes and clamps fuel hoses, tubes and coolant hoses to shut off the flow. The tool that makes the job easier is the hose stopper. There is also a tool called pinch-off pliers that does the same job in the shape of pliers. The Super Cub has a fuel cock that is integrated into the carb body, so if you pull the tube out of the fuel cock, the gasoline inside the tank will flow out, causing panic. In such a case, shut off the fuel beforehand and get to work. After setting up the tools, I removed the fuel cock and checked the internal condition. As I expected, the inside of the carb was clean. After checking the condition of the fuel cock, you can use an oil mug to open the stopper and pour out all the gasoline in the tank.

If your car stalls or runs out of gas, suspect a "clogged" tank cap.!?

When drinking juice from a glass, if you close the top of the straw with your fingertip and lift it up, the juice inside the straw will not flow down. I'm sure everyone has experienced such an experiment before. The same phenomenon occurs in a gasoline tank. Even if the fuel cock is turned on, if the breather function of the tank cap is not good, the gasoline will not flow down. This can cause the engine to run out of gas and stop ....... Surprisingly, there must be many riders who have such experience. Many gasoline tanks have a breather passage inside the tank cap. In many cases, the breather passage inside the tank cap is clogged due to rust, so be sure to spray the holes in the tank cap with an air gun when reconditioning an immobile vehicle.

Spark plug spark check in the dark

After checking that the plug cap and the high tension cord are firmly connected (the cap is screwed in tightly)?), remove the spark plug, press the threaded part of the plug against the cylinder head while it is inserted into the cap, and turn the cell motor, or step on the kick and try to inspect the spark of the spark plug. If you can't see the spark, try checking in the shade or in the dark with the fluorescent lights off. If the spark is coming from the center electrode and the screw part, etc., not from the center electrode and the upper electrode, let's change the plug and reconfirm the spark condition.

Spray oil through the plug hole to moisturize.

While you remove the spark plug, spray oil through the pluck hole. This will moisten and lubricate the cylinder walls and piston rings. In the case of a 4-stroke engine, spray through the plug hole, remove the head cover and tappet cap, and spray around the camshaft, rocker arms and tappets. If you remove the head cover and tappet cap and spray a little more on the sliding parts such as the camshaft, rocker arm and tappet area, you will feel more secure. After applying engine oil, step on the cell motor or kick and try to turn the crankshaft.

Test drive after confirming normal operation of various lights.

Finally, it's time to start setting up the engine. Change to fresh gasoline. After checking the spark of the spark plug, I restored the plug and turned on the fuel cock. When I pulled the choke lever and pushed the cell button (I used the booster cable to turn on the power from another battery), I was able to start the engine very easily!!!Let's put the choke back on and try to keep it revving at a slightly higher idle. It is not easy to keep the engine running if the carb is not working properly, but this carb seems to be in good condition. After letting the engine warm up a bit, I let the engine idle for a few times, and after the idle was stable, I checked the horn operation, blinker operation, and front and rear brake lights. The headlights are always on, so I checked the headlights, tail lights, and meter lights. Also check that when the engine is revved up, the headlights become brighter and brighter and the brightness becomes constant after a certain RPM range. This is to check if the regulator rectifier function is working properly or not.?It is also an easy way to check. If the regulator function does not work, the headlight will continue to brighten in synchronization with the increase in engine speed. In such a situation, each bulb will be cut one after another by the increase of engine speed during driving.

Since I still had some time left on my liability period, I took it for a test ride around the garage. As expected, the 50cc displacement is not powerful enough to fly comfortably, but apart from that, it is fun to ride, which is the lineage of Super Cub. After all, motorcycles are fun!

The carb adjustment will make your driving more stable.

After the actual driving test was completed, the idle speed was adjusted and the pilot screw was slowly turned further to determine the screw position at the point where the engine speed was highest. Once again, the idle was adjusted to the desired height. Also, the throttle cable had a lot of play in it, so it was adjusted to normal play and the job was completed.

When a motorcycle that has not been ridden for a while, not just the Super Cub, has difficulty starting the engine, it is a good idea to use a rag to absorb (pour out) the residual gasoline inside the carburetor, and then pour fresh gasoline into the carb from the fuel tank. After replacing the inside of the carb with fresh gasoline, try to start the engine. A small amount of gasoline can easily deteriorate, but if there is a certain amount of gasoline left in the fuel tank, it is possible to start the engine in many cases.

Many riders have had the experience of trying to start their engine for the first time in several months without any problems when they last rode it. If the engine has been neglected for several years instead of several months, it is a good idea to replace not only the gasoline in the carburetor, but also all the gasoline in the tank. If you can't get the engine to start despite the initial bang, bang, bang, check the inside of the float chamber and remove and clean if necessary.?Or do you want to disassemble and clean it??Or a complete overhaul?You can make a decision after checking the actual product. I'm sure there are many examples of what could be called "serious injuries," but the truth is, there are many cases where it's surprisingly easy to get back on the road. In any case, the important thing is experience. Let's enjoy tinkering with motorcycles every day so that we can gain experience and increase our maintenance knowledge.