Every model has various switches built into the left and right sides of the handlebars. The switches on older models are well-modulated and have good operability. However, used motorcycles from the 2000s and earlier, and older motorcycles from the 80s and earlier, often have some defects or less moderation in switching, proportional to the length of time they have been left unattended or the conditions under which they were left (e.g., in the rain or stored under the eaves).
If there is no click = no moderation when activating the indicator switch, and there is an uncomfortable feeling as if something is biting into it, unconditionally open the switch housing and try spraying the area around the actuating lever pivot of the various switches and near the electrical contacts with an air gun. If the actuation is still not improved, spray the affected area with parts cleaner, wait 10 or so seconds, and then blow air when the dirt has loosened up for effective cleaning.
Something doesn't feel right. There's an unidentified life form inside.
I had a weird feeling about the indicator switch on my motorcycle that I had left for a while. It was kind of weird, so I took the switch housing apart and it was really weird! Unidentified life forms or their remnants can cause discomfort in switching operations, and sometimes you can't actually do what you want. Foreign objects like this can cause communication problems.
Even a simple air blow has an extraordinary effect.
For a motorcycle that has been ridden regardless of the weather, it is natural that the condition of various parts are different = degraded compared to a motorcycle that has not been used in the rain. The most obvious example is the brake disc rotor. Many motorcycles that have not been used in the rain are extremely clean with little wear on the rotor surface, but models that have been ridden a lot and have not been maintained or washed well often have record-breaking wear. In the case of pin-slide calipers, the pins and pin receptacles can become thin and rattle. In the same way, when you disassemble the switches that are still filled with rainwater, you will be surprised! In not a few cases, the inside of it is completely covered with bright red rust. This is especially the case with old motorcycles that have been stored in poor conditions. Regardless of the condition, it is effective to open the switch box, check the internal condition, and blow air to each part.
High-performance chemical "contact revival" spray
Sometimes, the switch contact is not working properly, or the operation around the switch lever fulcrum is shaky and causes operation failure. In such a case, first clean the dirt around the affected area with parts cleaner and then blow air. Then, spray some anti-corrosive penetrating spray and let it soak in, and blow off the excess oil with air blow. And finally, spray chemicals to revive the electrical contacts around the contacts. By spraying the switch contacts, you can gently remove dirt and corrosion from the metal contacts. After spraying, actively moving the contacts while switching will definitely improve the conductivity.
Be careful of the magnetic switch on cell starter vehicles.
There are times when you press the cell button and it doesn't make a sound (you can't hear it click). In such a case, clean the cell button contact area with parts cleaner, spray contact revival spray, and press the switch repeatedly. If there is still no change in the symptoms, remove the magnetic switch coupler, spray the magnetic switch terminal contacts with revival spray, and insert and remove the coupler several times to ensure the flow of electricity.
Because of the large current flowing through the magnet switch, a large fuse (main fuse) is built into the switching circuit. If the fuse is blown, the switch will not work, so pull out the fuse and check if it is not blown. Let's check it visually. If it is difficult to know whether it is good or bad, it is best to check the continuity with a circuit tester.
Magnetic switch couplers whose contacts have been burned in the past or whose resistance has increased due to corrosion may have "burned" around the terminals of the wiring. The function of such switch couplers can be restored by repairing the wiring and replacing the terminals. Use the same thickness of wiring as the burnt wiring, and use special pliers to caulk the terminal. Spray the contact terminals of switch components with contact revival spray, wait for a while, repeatedly insert and remove the coupler, and then blow air.
Be careful of the fuse-box contact where a large current flows.
The design of the electrical circuit differs depending on the motorcycle manufacturer and year, but in addition to the large fuse that plugs into the magnetic switch, there is always a fuse box that serves as the power source for each unit. The connector terminals on the fuse box side and the terminals where the fuses are plugged in are important, but the terminals and cords that are plugged into the coupler on the main harness side can be burned, so regular unplugging and plugging during inspection and cleaning and air blowing around the coupler is effective. In particular, unplugging the coupler after washing the motorcycle, blowing air, and then restoring the coupler is very effective for avoiding problems and avoiding encountering problems. After driving in the rain or washing the motorcycle, it can be said that the air blow of various couplers is an effective preventive maintenance.
- Point 1・If you are concerned about the horn sounding bad, or the cell start not going smoothly, clean the switch contacts.
- Point 2・Using the high-performance chemical "Contact Revival" spray agent restores electrical conductivity. This is one of the best chemicals to have on hand.
- Point 3・Periodically clean the contacts of the connection terminals where a large current flows. Periodic inspection is indispensable to keep the unit in great condition. Air blow is effective.
I started maintenance on the motorcycle to revive it after it had been lying in storage (barn) for years. I finished the initial charging while replacing the battery with a new one, and checked the electrical circuitry. The blinkers work OK, the horn works OK, but the headlight does not light up when I turn on the headlight switch. I thought maybe the bulb was out. I removed the bulb, but there was no problem and it didn't seem to be broken. Why doesn't the headlight come on? While thinking about it, I loosened the tightness of the switch box fixed to the handlebar, where the headlight switch and kill switch are combined, with a Phillips screwdriver.
Open the switch housing and be amazed! Inside the housing, there were also white threads that looked like small spider webs and cocoon-like objects. Perhaps it was these cobwebs that were causing the weird sticky feeling that came over my fingertips when switching. I'm sure many riders have had this experience in the past. So, I blew the air inside the switch housing. If you don't have a compressor, you can use a can of air duster spray to clean the computer keyboard as an emergency measure. After the air blow, spray the switch with switch contact revival spray, wait for a while, and then blow out the dirt inside again. Then, the uncomfortable feeling on your fingertips when the switch is activated will be almost gone and the switch will look crisp. When I turned on the main key and operated the headlight switch, the headlights came on without a hitch. The headlights came on without a hitch and the low/high switch worked as usual.
Since the late 70's for North American reimported motorcycles, and since the early 90's for domestic models, it has been a vehicle law that the headlight is always on, and many models do not have a light switch (dim switch). However, in the case of older motorcycles produced before that time, the control of the headlight is left to the rider, so it is normal for a headlight switch to be present.
After inspecting the electrical circuitry, I removed the side cover and found that the underside of the cover was also covered with cobwebs. Obviously, the storage environment where the motorcycle had been left for a while had an effect, but it didn't matter if it was stored indoors, in a garage, or under the eaves of the roof. If you have a vehicle that is usually covered in cobwebs, you may want to make some changes to the storage location. In the case of older motorcycles from the 60's and earlier, there are no wires or couplers on the main key, so the round terminal is caulked on the end of the harness, as if tightening the battery terminal. In the 60's, the harnesses coming out of the switches were equipped with separate, covered guillotine terminals to connect the male and female terminals. In the 90's, rubber was incorporated into each wire to make it a waterproof coupler, and today, waterproof couplers have evolved into various types.
As you can see from these facts, technological evolution is not limited to engines and motorcycles body parts, but the wiring harnesses and couplers for electrical components are also evolving rapidly. It is obvious that one of the reasons for the evolution of electrical parts is to "enhance water resistance. After removing the side cover or washing the motorcycle, remove the various couplers and blow air around the internal contacts. Repeatedly plugging and unplugging the couplers will also have a great effect in terms of avoiding problems before they occur.
