Front gear = drive sprocket replacement is the most effective
Have you ever had the feeling that the engine speed is too high when you are driving in top gear? In this case, you can change the secondary reduction ratio to suit your personal preferences. Once you've done so, you'll be amazed at the difference!
There are times when you're cruising in top gear and the engine revs are so high that one twist of the throttle is enough to give you enough acceleration. This is especially true with a tuned engine, and it's easy to get into this situation. However, in some cases, the engine characteristics are daringly swung to a slower speed to give it a flavor that matches the character of the model. Let's take a look at the secondary reduction ratio, which is the ratio between the drive and drivetrain sprocket.
The manufacturer's setting is only the maximum common denominator
The CT125 Hunter Cub is equipped with a secondary reduction ratio that is designed for a slower speed ride than a practical model (although the C125 is no longer a practical model) with a similar engine. If you're riding through steep forest roads, you may be fine with a lower speed gear ratio, but some say that if you're riding long tours, mainly from city to country roads, you can have fun with a longer gear ratio than the stock setting.
Determining the secondary reduction ratio is a difficult task. A vehicle that is mainly used as a normal leg, and does not carry much luggage, versus a vehicle that is mainly used as a city motorcycle and does not carry much luggage, should definitely have a different secondary reduction ratio. The second reduction ratio set by motorcycle manufacturers is based on the character of the motorcycle, but it also has a strong element of "to suit everyone". For mopeds, in particular, it is more difficult to determine the secondary reduction ratio for the moped class mopeds than for the liter super sports models, which are designed for maximum performance, because of the various ways in which they will be used (according to a manufacturer's development staff). Many users have said that they bought the motorcycle because they liked the design, so they have the opportunity to ride it off-road & trial style, even in a trail style like this CT125, but only on asphalt = city streets.
The Honda sideways engine that has been used in past models is well known for the engine tuning of the 75cc, 88cc, 110cc, and 125cc models. When talking to fans who enjoy such power-ups, they tell us that the first step in modifying a tuned engine is to change the secondary reduction ratio.
These days, mopeds are few and far between, but in the pre-80's, many moped models with 2-stroke engines were fitted with bolt-on chambers to increase torque fluctuations and power peaks. While the 2-stroke engines were designed to ride at higher RPMs than the stock settings, the secondary reduction ratio was not as drastically altered as with the 4-stroke models.
Increased displacement for more torque!!
A world-renowned engine tuner once said, "There's no better way to make power than by increasing the bore. For example, when you go from a 750cc engine to an 850cc engine with 100cc more power, the difference is obvious. Some veteran riders have experienced a model that is not so different in size or design but performs completely differently. The Mini-Trek 50 versus the Mini-Trek 80, the Z400FX and Z550FX, the CB750F versus the CB900F and 1100F, and to top it all off, the GSX-R1100 versus the GSX-R750. By experiencing such a "big difference", the 750cc barrier to domestic voluntary regulations became a hot topic, and the reimportation scene was booming from the mid-1980s to the early 1990s.
- Point 1 - Change the secondary reduction ratio to one that suits your driving style.
- Point 2 - Depending on the combination of the number of gear teeth, it may be necessary to replace the drive chain.
- Point 3 - The easiest way to feel the difference immediately is to replace the "drive sprocket".
- Point 4 - It's fun to change the settings to suit the touring course.
It's called a "final change", and it's a "change in the secondary reduction ratio". It's easy to understand how it works if you think of the gear change operation that comes standard on CHALY motorcycles. The first gear, which is light at the start of the ride, is easy to pedal and allows for a smoother start even when the motorcycle is loaded with luggage. However, once you reach a certain speed, you'll have to move up a gear to reduce the number of revolutions you have to pedal, as both legs are spinning faster as you pedal. Also, when you want to speed up, you should be able to choose a "higher gear = fewer rear-wheel teeth" to ride with the same number of pedal revolutions, but with more rear tire revolutions.
The larger the gear of the rear wheel, the easier the acceleration will be and the more stable the start-up acceleration will be, even with heavy loads. On the other hand, the smaller gears on the pedal side, where the rider uses both legs to pedal, the easier it is to accelerate off the motorcycle. Once you understand this principle, you should be able to understand the difference in the secondary reduction ratio of the motorcycle.
The manufacturer's secondary reduction ratio is not only important for the character of the motorcycle, but also for the fact that it should be "for everyone". If it's a trail model that you're riding around in the mountains, then a slower speed setting is the right thing to do, but in reality, that's not necessarily the case. For example, the CT125, the successor to the much-anticipated CT110, became so popular upon its release that it has been difficult to deliver it to the public, but how many riders are using it as a specially designed trail model? Many mopeds are used for easy and comfortable touring and many users say that even with a 1T (1 tooth) extra drive sprocket, the motorcycle rides well and is easy to drive on paved roads because of the slight drop in engine rotation at the top cruise. However, on the other hand, on forest roads and steep mountain roads, some people would like to have more torque and would like to increase the size of the drivetrain sprocket.
This is the perfect setting for everyone. No more, no less, it's just a matter of finding the right setting for you, so that you can enjoy riding and tinkering with your motorcycle even more. If you have any doubts about your motorcycle's performance, you should consider changing the final gear setting, replace the sprockets, and perform maintenance on the various parts of the motorcycle at the same time.
Enjoy touring with a very nice ride!
Once the final settings are set, it is a lot of fun. If you don't have a tuned engine, if you don't have the right final setting, you will not be able to get the true power out of the engine, and it can cause damage to the engine if you ride it too much. Have fun with a "very nice" ride!
