Many models introduced before the early 1980s had point-controlled ignition systems, regardless of whether they were 6-volt or 12-volt vehicles. Here, based on the 6-volt era Honda Dax, we will review the procedures for maintenance and adjustment of the points area and when troubleshooting.
Flaming-ignition and battery-ignition vehicles
From the 6-volt era to the 12-volt era, many models of flywheel pullers are commonly used on moped-class engines. It is one of the special tools that every Sunday mechanic of Honda horizontal 4-minisans must own. By removing the flywheel, the condition of the point contacts can be inspected. Use a loupe if it is difficult to see.
Clean up dirt on contacts with copy paper
A 6-volt spec dachs with Hitachi points. Inspection of the point contacts with a loupe before modifying them gave the impression that they had become somewhat oil-stained. It may be that oil from past maintenance practices had adhered to them.
Dirt on the contacts can be removed with copy paper. The oil felt lubricates the point heel, which is in constant contact with the point cam. If it is dry, it is just a felt. When disassembling, use a thin flat-blade screwdriver to replenish the felt with grease.
Ignition timing varies with point gap.
After restoring the flywheel, tighten the center nut while securing it with the holder tool. Adjust the gap width when the points open with a sickness gauge.0.35 to 0. By adjusting at 40mm, the matching marks on the ignition timing will almost match. For a de-normal engine, the gap should be fine-tuned so that the case side tick line and the "F" tick line on the outer circumference of the flywheel are aligned.
Timing light for reliable adjustment
A timing light (strobe) makes checking ignition timing much easier. It is a special tool that is indispensable for practicing reliable maintenance. The Honda 4 mini series engines, both horizontal and vertical types, have a system in which the timing adjustment is fine-tuned by "gap widening". This is not the type where the base plate is moved while the gap adjustment remains the same, as is the case with larger vehicles.
If you are enjoying engine tuning, it is good to enjoy changing the ignition timing, knowing that it may be inconvenient, since each engine specification has its own optimal ignition timing. It is good to experience and learn the difference between slightly earlier timing for better rotation at high rpm and slightly later timing for more power on an uphill climb.
- Point 1 - Dirt on point contacts causes ignition failure.
- Point 2 - Inspect point arm distortion at the same time as removing dirt from contact points.
- Point 3 - The points of the Flamag ignition car are laid out so that they are hidden inside the rotor.
- Point 4 - Check the ignition strobe (timing lamp) for final confirmation.
In the old 6-volt era, many moped class vehicles used the Flamag ignition system. The "Flamag = Flywheel Magneto" ignition system was used in many of the old 6-volt moped class motorcycles. The important thing is to know "which part of the ignition system is causing the trouble" and "which part of the ignition system is causing the trouble.?It would be a quick understanding of the "what". When the crankshaft turns with the kick start, the flywheel (rotor) rotates several revolutions. As the rotor rotates, a permanent magnet built into the inside of the rotor causes electricity to flow to the ignition coil (exciter coil).
The flow of electricity is switched by the intermittence of the point contact, and at that moment, the spark plug is ignited. That is how a Flamag ignition car works. That's a pretty rough explanation, but just remembering it like that should be helpful for troubleshooting.
What is important is "what part of the ignition system is causing the trouble" within that ignition system.?That is to say, "What are the symptoms? Paradoxically, when a problem occurs in any component, "what symptoms?If we only knew that, we could "overcome the trouble without going too far. For example, what kind of trouble can occur if the point contacts are dirty?? Everyone understands that if the contacts are dirty, electricity will not flow through them. The function of the point is to interrupt the electricity that was flowing, and at that moment, it triggers a spark to fly to the plug electrode. If the point is dirty, no electricity can pass through in the first place, so even if the point opens, no conduction cutoff occurs and no change occurs.
That is why sparks will not fly. To clean such a contact point, simply prepare a piece of two-folded copy paper cut into strips, lift and pinch the contact point, and "pull out" the strip of paper. You can also use a flat-blade screwdriver to open the contacts and clean them with parts cleaner, but be careful when spraying the parts cleaner, as it may wash off important oils (such as the lubricating oil of the point support shaft).
If the bike has not been ridden for a while, it is a good idea to check the condition of the point contacts and also the condition of the point arms. To check the point arms, the flywheel must be removed for visual inspection. In the case of Flamag point motorcycles, where the points are built into the inside of the flywheel, the point cam on the inside shaft center of the flywheel may be pressed against the point heel side when the flywheel is restored. If the point cam is pressed against the closed point heel side, the point arm can become distorted. If this happens, the point contact area will be tilted and electricity will not flow conveniently, causing point contact roughness.
The capacitor is the one that leads to malfunction due to continued running under such conditions or due to deterioration over time. One of the reasons why the engine can be started but the engine speed does not increase is due to a defective capacitor. In addition, capacitor failure is less likely to occur when the engine is cold, and symptoms often occur when the engine is warm. It is safe to assume that the cause of a problem that regains its condition after a short break and rest is almost always the electrical or ignition system. In the case of a point vehicle, the cause is a defective capacitor or ignition coil, and in the case of a transistor-ignition vehicle, the cause is a malfunction of the transistor unit or pickup coil.
Hypothetically, if the engine warms up, "one lung!? In the case of a four-cylinder engine such as a four-cylinder engine, what cylinder is malfunctioning?? It is a good idea to quickly touch the exhaust pipes with your fingertips to check the degree of heat. If the exhaust pipes No. 1 and No. 4 are hot but No. 2 and No. 3 are cold, the electrical system is definitely the root of the trouble.
If you want to identify the cause of the problem further, you can tentatively replace the connections of the ignition system parts to see which parts are at fault.?It can also be identified.
