Get a cheap used motorcycle! Do you want to get it for parts? Or finish it up and turn it into a commuter motorcycle? It's a problem that you have to worry about. Have you ever had the experience of having a problem with a used motorcycle? Regardless of the situation, it is important to know what the motorcycle is like, so let's reconfirm the condition and points to "look for" when purchasing a vehicle or before starting something.
Determining fall history is extremely important.
Even if the exterior parts are clean, once they are replaced, the original condition of the vehicle will be lost. Even if the vehicle already has no exterior parts, by looking at the steering stopper on the frame, for example, is there evidence of the steering stem (under bracket) hitting the frame side stopper hard? No? If the paint on the stopper is heavily peeled off, or if the stopper is deformed or blown off, it is likely that the vehicle has had a fall in the past. If the vehicle has no exterior parts, the main frame is often bent (motorcycles with a history of rear-end collisions will be curved in this area) by applying a metal scale to a straight section of the main frame.
Is there point rust on the inner tube?
Even if there is no history of outdoor storage, depending on the conditions of the storage environment, spot rust may occur on the inner tube. This is not uncommon, and even if stored under the eaves of a roof, rust can erode the inner tube in less than a year in a humid place. In particular, be careful to check for rust on sliding parts.
Water-cooled motorcycles must be careful of the waterway system.
For water-cooled engine models, it is no exaggeration to say that the condition of the coolant is a major key. If the coolant is relatively new LLC (long-life coolant), it is safe, but if it has been injected for more than 5 years, the effectiveness of the coolant will have decreased considerably. In some cases, the impeller (screw part) of the water pump has rusted away.
Air blowing before removing parts is important.
When removing any part, dust may accumulate around the part without being noticed. Therefore, before maintenance or removal of parts, blow air around the parts thoroughly. Be especially careful with spark plugs. If the plugs are not removed after blowing air thoroughly, dust and water may fall into the combustion chamber at the same time as the plugs are removed, and this may inadvertently worsen the condition of the engine. This can inadvertently damage the condition of the engine. After removing the plugs, apply spray oil through the plug holes to improve initial acclimation.
Let's turn the crankshaft.
Inadvertent kicking or turning the cell can cause damage to the engine internals. Does the engine operate? Does the crank turn? To check, remove the oil filler cap and take a peek inside. Engines with a history of leaks may have emulsified oil and cream-like impurities deposited around the cap. After checking the inside of the engine, open the service hole and try turning the crankshaft. This way, you should be able to feel any discomfort immediately at your fingertips.
Let's remove the battery.
When inspecting various parts, especially the condition of the engine area, whether or not the main key is present, the battery should be disconnected and set up so that the electrical system is not affected. Also, since air elements are often forgotten, when the air cleaner box is removed, the element inside should be removed first.
- Point 1: Checking and inspecting key points will give you an idea of the motorcycle's true nature.
- Point 2: Blow air around parts before removing them.
- Point 3: When checking engine operation, try to move the engine directly by hand, not by kick or cell.
Whether it is a complete motorcycle, a parts-retrieved motorcycle, a rolling chassis, or sometimes just a frame, we want to know the condition of the motorcycle when it was being used. Especially when buying a used motorcycle or a base motorcycle for restoration, we often have to judge the condition of the motorcycle from its appearance. Here, I would like to explain how I personally judge the condition of a motorcycle. Let me tell you how I do it.
No. 1. Check to see if the VIN number on the registration document matches the VIN number of the current vehicle. Some old motorcycles have been "re-engraved" at some point in time, and due to the recent old motorcycle movement, there are many cases where the DMV office checks the VIN when conducting vehicle inspections. Each manufacturer has its own unique imprint. If a vehicle is suspected of having a different maker's imprint, the current vehicle may be checked in the imprint ledger for each maker. If there is no match, the vehicle will of course not be allowed to undergo registration or continuous inspections.
No. 2. Check the condition of the steering stopper. If there is a history of falls, the stopper may be bent, missing, or have clear evidence of having been repaired.
No. 3. Is the inner tube bent or rusted? Etc. It is safe to say that three-pronged distortion and bent inner tubes can be corrected, and rusted inner tubes can be remanufactured and repaired, unless something is very wrong. Of course, since this is a late-arrival cost, you should expect some future expenses when you purchase the vehicle.
There are many other areas to look at, but an experienced nose definitely works better on this one, so when in doubt, it is best to have an experienced fellow motorcyclist judge for you. In the case of a bare vehicle with no exterior parts, is the straight part of the main frame distorted? Is it bent? You can also check. When purchasing a "base vehicle" for a motorcycle that you are serious about finishing and want to fully restore, you should check all the important parts carefully. Let's enjoy the restoration work more!