Which is more demanding on the engine oil, the long haul or the short haul?

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長距離と短距離、エンジンオイルの負担が大きいのはどっち?That's a long distance, of course!

Well, that's basically true.
The reason why the manufacturer recommends changing the oil every 10,000km is because the oil should be changed because the burden of the oil should have deteriorated over such a long distance.

Shh!
Have you ever heard that "short distances are worse for the engine (oil)"?
It's true.Short distances can put more strain on the oil and cause it to deteriorate.

WebiQ is here to bring you a little happiness and motorcycle knowledge.
In this article, we'll discuss the relationship between mileage and oil degradation.
If you have a lot of chances to ride it, this is a must-see!

Mileage is not proportional to oil degradation.

The basic premise of this story is.Mileage does not equal oil degradation.So the first thing you need to know is that
There are times when the oil burden can be so dramatic over short distances that it defies the assumption that "long distances have a higher oil burden.
You can't say that you don't need an oil change just yet because it's far from 100km.

Longer distances will strain the oil and degrade it. ......
This is so obvious that you can imagine it, right?
I'm curious.Even if the mileage is short, the load is applied and the car deteriorates.This is the person who is.

Maybe the way you're riding is putting a lot of pressure on the oil?
Maybe it's time to speed up the replacement cycle?
No, but I'm sure I'm not riding in a way that puts that much strain on myself: ......

I will now explain those questions.

What is the role of engine oil in the first place?

First of all, you need to know this.
We actually do a lot more than just "lubrication" as you might imagine.
If you understand the role of your engine oil, you won't be fooled by the mileage.

There are five main roles of engine oil!

      1. lubrication
      2. It's the role most easily imagined.

        At the same time, it is the most important role, and you can think of it as high performance oil = high performance lubrication performance.
        There are also two types of lubrication: one to prevent metal-to-metal contact and the other to make metal-to-metal contact slip.
        Preventing contact means creating a film of oil to prevent parts from coming into direct contact with each other, but

In fact, the majority of lubrication is this.

        The places where the metal is rubbing against each other and appears to be slipping on oil, but when you zoom in on them, they are not in direct contact and appear to be floating on each other.

        The piston sides and cylinder walls, the camshaft and rocker arm contact surfaces, and the gear-to-gear meshing surfaces ...... all appear to be metal-to-metal rubbing or contact.

Actually, all of them are not in contact.

        Even so, there are times when the oil film is interrupted and metal contacts are made, and this is where the "slipping" comes into play, but since the inside of the engine is exposed to high speed rotation and high load, it is not possible to make it in time even if it slips a little.

        It's only a last resort, and basically by the time the metal comes into contact with each other, it's too late. (If they continue to contact, the frictional heat will melt the metal and cause the engine to blow.
        How to maintain an uninterrupted thin film of oil to prevent metal-to-metal contact?

The higher the oil film retention performance, the higher the performance.

      1. hermetically sealed
      2. The easiest way to imagine sealing is probably the relationship between the piston sides and the cylinder walls.

        The area above the piston is where gas is generated by combustion, but if the hot, high-pressure combustion gas escapes below the piston, various problems will occur.

        Therefore, it is necessary to seal the inside of the engine and the combustion chamber in order to separate the two spaces.
        If the oil is made of sludge like water candy, the sealing performance will be great, but the engine will have a hard time turning because of the tremendous resistance, and the power and fuel efficiency will be the worst.

If you can seal it tightly even though it's shabby so that it doesn't become a resistance to rotation, it has high performance.

      1. cooling
      2. Engine oil plays an important role in cooling the engine itself, not just in oil-cooled engines .......

        It's an image of cooling the whole thing while diffusing the heat taken away from a hot spot to a place where it's not so hot.

        Specifically, the hot oil passes through the cylinder head where the hot combustion chamber is located and returns to the oil pan.

The heat is diffused to cool the entire engine.

        It is so important that some vehicles are equipped with an oil cooler to promote forced cooling.

        This is even more important with an air-cooled engine that tends to build up heat locally.
      1. Washing and Dispersion
      2. As mentioned in the sealing section, high temperature and high pressure combustion gas can escape through the gap between the piston side and the cylinder wall, but even with the best sealing performance, gas loss will inevitably occur.

        That's what an engine is.
        The combustion gas that escapes from the inside of the engine (called "blow-by gas") includes soot that accumulates around the bottom of the piston during incomplete combustion.

        In addition to the blue bi-gas, the slightest amount of metal contact can cause metal dust to be generated inside the engine.

        These

Ability to take in dirt without accumulating it and disperse it in the oil

        is required.
      1. anti-corrosion
      2. This is also easy to imagine.

        A film of oil is created to prevent the metal inside the engine from coming into direct contact with the air.

Preventing rust inside the engine

        performance.
        Whatever it is, if it's oiled, it won't rust, right? Some oils are designed to be changed in a short period of time (such as race-specific oils), but they don't contain anti-corrosion agents, and there are oils that rust.

        Not all expensive race cars are the best performers.

These are the roles of the engine oil.
You do a lot of things that are surprisingly different.
Engine oil, ersatz.

So what is engine oil degradation?

Engine oil was found to have five roles, but if the oil is overloaded, it will degrade and not maintain its performance.

Basically, engine oil degradation is proportional to the engine's operating time, or mileage.
Longer distances are more taxing, which is evident if you compare oil after 100km to oil after 10,000km.
It should have taken in all sorts of dirt and turned black.

However, ......Regardless of the mileage, there are factors that degrade over short distances.
We will review the typical causes of degradation and explain the causes of degradation unrelated to mileage.

Causes of engine oil deterioration

      1. high temperature
      2. When exposed to the heat generated by the engine, it degrades over time.

        In general, the cumulative time exposed to heat is proportional to the distance traveled.

        In other words.

It deteriorates with mileage.

        Apart from that, unexpectedly high temperatures will cause a quick deterioration.

        There is no definite temperature that says, "If it goes over 0°C, you're out," but I personally feel that if it goes over 130°C, it will deteriorate quickly and become irreversible.

        Different people have different feelings and standards.
        High temperatures are a condition of degradation, and it has nothing to do with mileage.

It deteriorates rapidly at abnormal temperatures.

        If you struggle in the mud on an air-cooled off-road bike and the engine gets hot as a chink, the oil degrades rapidly after only a few miles ...... and so on.
      1. oxidation
      2. The reason why new oil containers are always sealed is to prevent oxidation.

        I haven't checked, but I personally suspect that oxidation is the reason why paper pack oil containers are not widely used.
        By the way, the inside of the engine is not filled bitchily with oil, it's filled with air.

        Since each part of the engine is rotating at high speed while stirring the oil, it mixes violently with the air and oxidizes.
        So, the oxidation is going on while the engine is running.

        in short

It is generally proportional to the mileage.

        If you ride slowly and carefully, the degree of agitation will be reduced because of the low engine speed, which will inhibit oxidation, and if you ride hard and maintain high RPMs, the agitation will be more intense, which will lead to more degradation ...... Maybe, but the degradation factors other than oxidation are too big for me, to be honest. I'm not sure.
        An example of oxidation out of proportion to mileage would be a long term immobile car with zero mileage.

        However, we, the average user, can ignore it because the engine will not suddenly start from such a state.
      1. water contamination
      2. What? Can you get water in the engine? (Masuo-san style)

        I can't believe I'm going in there.
        Water can get inside the engine without any reason, such as submersion.

        What if I run in the rain?

        No, you can't get water into the engine just by driving in the rain.

        But that's just it.

Even if the vehicle has never been driven in the rain, water can get into the engine.

        It's true, this is super important.
        The reason for this is because the inside of the engine is connected to the outside air.

        I wrote above about the combustion gas escaping into the engine, but that gas is returned to the air cleaner box through the inside of the engine.

        The inside of that air cleaner box is connected to the outside air.

        This means that the inside of the engine is connected to the outside air in the passage where the gas exits.
        Furthermore, this trend is not a one-way street.

        The air inside the engine expands as it gets hot and contracts as the engine cools.

        It means that every time the engine gets cold or hot, the air in the engine is moving in and out.
        And there is always humidity in the outside air. (i.e. moisture.)

        This is why water gets inside the engine, even if you don't like it.
        Now, this is the expansion and contraction of the air in the engine (i.e., the cause of moisture entering the engine).

It is proportional to the number of times the engine gets hot or cold.

      1. shear
      2. The majority of oils are labeled with a viscosity label such as "■W-0".

        The "■W" at the beginning indicates viscosity at low temperatures, and the "00" in the latter half indicates viscosity at high temperatures, and the difference in viscosity is caused by a thickening additive called a polymer.
        This additive, in the extreme, is a fibrous resin.

        I'm talking about something very extreme.
        This additive is sheared off by the movement inside the engine and loses its original function.

        The biggest impact is on

Shear due to transmission gears, etc.

        But the bad news is that motorcycle engines are integral to the transmission, so they are fated to be susceptible to shear.
        As it is sheared and deteriorates, the oil viscosity decreases and it becomes shabby at high temperatures.

        This is what causes the watery oil to come out after a warm up oil change.
        In the case of motorcycles, this is an item that degrades with engine operation time.

It is generally proportional to the mileage.

      1. stain
      2. Soot in the blow-by gas blown through the combustion chambers to the side of the pistons, powder scraped off the internal parts of the engine, and other contaminants are taken into the oil, which causes the oil to become dirty and deteriorate.

        It's just as you see it because it turns black as you use it.
        Furthermore, the polymer that came out of the "shear" above is the problem: the polymer that is sheared and reduced in size gets burnt to black when exposed to high temperatures.

        Soot and shavings can be filtered out by the oil filter to some extent, but the polymer is too small in size to pass through the filter, so it doesn't reduce the dirt at all.

From the moment you start the engine to the oil change, it just keeps getting dirty.

        As I mentioned above, it's normal for the oil to get dirty because it's the role of the oil to take in and clean and disperse the dirt.

        Engine oil is "that kind of thing".

Why short distances are a bad idea.

Now, as noted in the above section, there are several causes of engine oil deterioration that are not proportional to engine running time = mileage.
One of the most notable is number three.water contaminationIt is.
When a hot engine cools down, it draws humid air into the engine's interior, and when this air cools downCondensation occurs inside the engine.

The engine is pretty hot, so condensation can happen in the summer, but the worst is winter!
This is because the difference in temperature between hot and cold is greater in the winter, and the probability of condensation jumps.
For more information on this area, please search for "saturated water vapor content".

This is the condensation, but as long as the inside of the engine is connected to the atmosphereNo matter how carefully you handle it, it will occur 100% of the time.

However, the engine gets hot when you start it and the oil temperature is usually over 100°C.
Therefore, even if water gets mixed into the oil due to condensation in the engine, it usually evaporates when the engine is running and does not accumulate inside the engine.
The reason water doesn't come out of the drain bolts during an oil change is because all the condensed water has evaporated.

However, there are situations where this cannot evaporate.
It'sWhen starting and stopping over a short distance.

In a short distance, the oil temperature cannot rise sufficiently to evaporate water.
And even if the oil temperature exceeds 100°C, the time required to evaporate the water that is mixed in is not enough over a short distance.

In other words, if you start a cold engine (with water mixed in) → travel a short distance (water not fully evaporated) → stop the engine and cool down (rehydrate) repeatedly.The deterioration of the oil will be accelerated by the moisture in the oil.
This isWorse for oil and worse for the engine.I can say that.
In the early stages, the oil becomes cloudy, a little more advanced, it becomes cloudy, and when it becomes more intense, it becomes mayonnaise-like and loses its function as an oil altogether.

The mileage is just a guide.

Thus, the mileage does not increase.Even short distances can cause serious damage to the oil.
If there is major damage to the oil, it means that you are doing major damage to the engine as well.
Heeeee!

Prevention measures include avoiding extreme short distance travel.
In short, it is good if the water mixed inside the engine can be drained out again, so the water temperature rises to a certain temperature and there is time for the water to evaporate.

On the other hand, damage over long distances is simply the normal degradation caused by long hours of driving, so you won't suddenly do a lot of damage to your engine.
However, the mileage will increase, so the damage to the oil will accumulate by that amount.
If you continue to drive long distances without changing the oil, the function of the oil will be lost and it will slowly damage the engine.

Over extremely long distances, this increases the burden on the oil, and over extremely short distances, the water contamination can be fatal.
Which one is more demanding on the oil? Not.Neither of them are red.
Long or short, no matter how extreme they are.

In case you're wondering, this is exactly the same for 4-wheelers.
It's the worst way to use it in the winter to go to the convenience store for a bit of shopping.

summary

It's inevitable that the oil burden will build up over long distances.
But who wants to go tens of thousands of miles with no oil change?
If you drive a long distance, you can change the oil according to the distance.

Short distances can put a lot of strain on the engine oil.
When you have to run errands in the vicinity, take a short detour.Run until you've blown the water out of the engine before you head home.
That way, you won't have to summon mayonnaise in the engine.

And most importantly.
It's about knowing the role of the engine oil, as described in this article, and riding with the feeling of the engine oil.
That way, you won't be fooled by the mileage and you can judge oil degradation by feel.
I think it's important to be able to take care of those things that must have been highly loaded, hot, dirty, and watered in: ......!

 

I'd like to read that in conjunction with.
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