It's a polarizing opinion!
It works, and it's important! It's a placebo and a placebo. There is a school of thought, and its views are diametrically opposed.
In fact, the bike runs normally without any arching, and arching a new car doesn't change anything dramatically .......
The people who are in the "it works" camp will make fun of them by saying "you'll figure it out if you do it, you're just too dull to figure it out", and the people who are in the "it doesn't work" camp will make fun of them by saying "if it works, the manufacturers are doing it, you're arthing in MotoGP".
I'm troubled by the fact that both sides seem to be on the same page.
There is a right answer if you think about it properly.
WebiQ is here to bring you a little happiness and motorcycle knowledge.
Whether or not Earthing works or not, here's the deal!
- What's ground?
- I've never seen a ground wire in my life.
- How is the frame connected to the engine?
- So what is Earthing?
- What's the good news?
- So why aren't the manufacturers doing it?
- Huh! So, what's the point of Earthing then?
- What do you mean?
- If it's not driven in the rain and stored indoors, it's not rusty, so it's fine?
- So, does Earthing work?
- What does it all boil down to?
- Even if Earthing is effective.
- A bonus: my case.
I've never heard of Earthing before it worked or didn't work! What's a ground? I'll explain it super briefly for those of you who are
The bike is always grounded to begin with.
It's called EARTH.Negative side passage of electricityIt's OK if you think it's a good idea.
This is a pathway where the electricity from the positive of the battery goes through the switch to the component you want to operate (for example, a headlight), and that electricity comes back to you.
There are some cars that have a positive grounding (called a "negative control car"), but the explanation in this article is based on a general negative grounding.
No matter how powerful a dry cell battery is, if the wiring from the positive side does not reach the negative side, electricity will not flow, right?
Without a pathway back like this, it is impossible to leave, so every bike is always grounded.
I've never seen a ground wire in my life.
That's just as well.
The factory doesn't run separate ground wires.The frame and engine are used as a ground wire.
The frame and engine are made of metal, so it conducts electricity.
The idea is that even if the electrical resistance of the material is greater than that of the dedicated wiring, it will not be a conduction resistance because the area is overwhelmingly large.
That's actually true, and there is no lack of grounding due to the conductivity of the frame ground or engine ground.
So if you follow the wiring out of the negative terminal of the battery, it is often grounded to the frame (the wiring is connected to the frame) in a rather short distance.
Almost all bikes are constructed like this.
That's why a special line called 'ground wire' doesn't usually grow gnarled from somewhere.
The positive side of the wiring goes through the main harness and works the electrical components of each part, then back to the battery through the grounding path of the frame and engine. ...... That's how you can imagine it.
How is the frame connected to the engine?
Even if each of the materials, be it the frame or the engine, were to be able to conduct itself, they wouldn't be able to do so if they were separated, would they?
So, usually.via the engine mount bolts.Electricity.
I say "usually" because there are exceptions, e.g. in older cars, there may be very short wires connecting the engine to the frame.
Also, in some cases, the engine is connected to the frame by a short 10cm wire, even for rubber mounted vehicles.
The fact that the manufacturer has installed it on purpose means that it is an important part.
So what is Earthing?
As I explained above, it's already grounded in stock.
Earthing means 'adding a ground wire in addition to the stock grounding.Building another electrical return path for you.(2).
It's hard to understand because it's called "earthing" and it's so cool, but it's called "ground up".
The goal is to have another thick, reliable one to keep the electrical return path out of the frame and engine.
The ground wire is connected directly to the battery from the cell motor, headlight, spark plug (cylinder head), and other parts that require high current, in order to ensure a reliable path for electricity to return to the battery even if a large current is applied to those parts, and to allow them to perform at their full potential.
What's the good news?
The electricity will flow more easily.
To elaborate a bit more, the return path is thicker and the electricity can be returned reliably, so you can get a lot of electricity coming from the entrance (positive side).
The more electricity we can get, the more power we'll have! This is a way of tuning into the idea of
It's very reasonable, isn't it?
So why aren't the manufacturers doing it?
There's plenty of electricity coming through without the need for arching.'
It's a placebo, it doesn't work, and the people who are in the placebo group will attack you with this theory.
In a way, this is correct, and if it's really necessary, the manufacturer will always arsing it.
In fact, there is even a short grounding wire that connects the engine to the frame of the car when it is deemed necessary.
Therefore, if you are a vehicle manufacturer, you should not be concerned about the lack of performance of electrical components due to insufficient grounding capacity.Absolutely not.
Huh! So, what's the point of Earthing then?
Come on.Here's the thing.It is.
I mentioned that there is absolutely no way that the factory body grounding capacity will be insufficient, but that's just for new cars.
The problem is that in vehicles that have been used to some extent, especially older vehicles or vehicles that are stored outdoors, the factory body grounding alone is not enough.Grounding capacity may be insufficient.of.
What do you mean?
If the car is new, the engine, frame and mounting bolts are rust free and glued together.
In this state, the contact area of each is large enough so that there is no electrical conduction resistance.
That's why it's genuine and no arthing is done.
However, you will encounter many different situations while riding.
Sometimes it gets rained on, and sometimes you have to splash water on the car wash.
If you drive along the coast, you'll be exposed to the sea breeze, and sometimes you'll run through puddles of melted snowmelt.
Many of you may be storing outdoors, and even if you have a body cover, there is still moisture on the ground because of the humidity.
You may fall over, or you may have a major problem and have to detach the engine.
If this happens, the parts of the car body that are in contact with each other will rust slightly, causing poor continuity.
If it's not driven in the rain and stored indoors, it's not rusty, so it's fine?
It's an aluminum frame and an aluminum engine, so there's no rust! What a mess.
The fact that the engine is in the frame to begin with means that there is a gap.
(The engine is bigger and won't fit without a gap.)
The gap has been eliminated by tightening it up with the engine mounting bolts, but technically the gap will remain unless it's welded in.
And if there are gaps, water can enter through capillary action.
Even in the air, there is moisture.
Also, the wiring ends should be bolted to the engine and frame via the terminals.
There are many connectors in the middle of the wiring, but there are gaps in each connection.
Those "invisible places" can rust at "invisible levels".
Even if there is no element of rusting at all, a bike that is a mass of dissimilar metals such as aluminum, iron, and stainless steel will always corrode (called electrical corrosion) due to potential differences.
This is also a conduction resistance.
Eventually, it will inevitably deteriorate over time, and if you don't do anything about it as it is.It is destined to become subtly less conductive with age.
So, does Earthing work?
When conduction resistance has increased in the frame or engine for various reasons, we use arching as a means of restoring conduction to the car body, and by adding additional conduction routes, we are able to ensure that conduction is maintained.
It's like digging another ditch next to a river that's not flowing well to improve its flow.Yes.
People who are in the effective and important school of thought will attack you with this theory.
In a way, you're right about this too.There's nothing wrong with that.
However, it doesn't always work if you do it.
As I mentioned at the beginning, it's almost useless in new condition.
This is because the body grounding is more than sufficient, so there is no need to install a new grounding wire.
Also, there are people who say that there is no need to add grounding, that there is no problem with conduction as long as the grounding is properly maintained and that grounding is useless.
And this opinion has a point.In fact, I think you're right.
What does it all boil down to?
Even on an older car, there is no point in arching if it is always in the same condition as new, as long as the frame and engine mounts are free of paint and rust, the metal is in perfect contact with each other, and the internal wiring is replaced before it deteriorates.
ButAs a practical matter, this is impossible.
The condition of the environment each vehicle has been in, where it has been driven, how often it has been serviced, and whether the maintenance has been done in a grounded manner. ......
All of these things and more are different for each individual vehicle.
In addition, there are almost no cars that can undergo heavy maintenance in such a short period of time before the continuity deteriorates, except for full-scale race cars.
This is why I wrote that it's impossible as a practical matter.
Also, manufacturers have designed the product to degrade over time in the first place.
Even if the continuity is a little worse, it won't stop working without adding a ground wire.
However, it is only the minimum level of conductivity that can maintain the manufacturer's desired performance, and in many cases, it is more effective to increase the conductivity further by grounding.
So there's no rule that says "Earthing works well on a 00 vehicle".
It's hard to say because all of the environments in which the same vehicle has been placed are different.
It's not something that can be lumped all together as 'Earthing' and said to be 'effective' or 'ineffective'.
I feel like the spark in the plugs is weak, I feel like the power is down somehow, the headlights are darker, and the cell motor seems to be getting weaker and weaker. ......
In times like this, I'm not afraid of being a hairy guy, but I'm not afraid of Earthing.Why don't you give it a try?
If it improves the situation, then it's a bad grounding, and if it doesn't change anything, then it's something else.
If there has been a change (i.e., poor grounding continuity), do you just ground it, or do you disassemble the body and polish the continuity path to maintain the original continuity, or do nothing because it doesn't interfere with the operation of the car, that's your decision to make.
It's not for anyone to decide.
One thing I can tell you is that just because you didn't arsing doesn't mean you won't break.
The vehicle manufacturers have conducted a huge amount of experiments that we amateurs cannot compete with, and the vehicle is not designed to require additional arching when it gets old.
Even if Earthing is effective.
Rarely do we have people who are arching for power, no matter how effective the arching is.No power-up.
For example, getting the plugs perfectly grounded has no bearing on engine power.
However.This is where it gets complicated.But if you get the plug perfectly grounded, you can actuallyThere is a power boost.
The reason for this is because 'the original state of affairs before arthing was not good enough'.
If the powerful ignition originally designed by the manufacturer due to poor grounding was not achieved and the proper spark was not created for ignition at the correct time, it will naturally result in incomplete combustion and power down.
This appears to be empowered by Earthing as it returns to its original form.
It is true that the power is increased from before Earthing, but it is 'inherent power' and not increased by Earthing.
It's not like we're powering up when we're powering up.It's a very complicated thing to do.
If you're going to power up with Earthing, absolutely every MotoGP car will be Earthing.
The reason why MotoGP machines don't have arching is because they are serviced after every ride, so there is no way for continuity problems to occur.
This disagreement between the "I don't power up with Earthing" group and the "I actually power up" group.Because of the different body conditions each of us is in.It is.
What is Earthing: ......
- It's not a magic tuning that improves the performance of electrically powered components.
- If you apply it from a new car, it probably won't do any good.
- No power-up.
- It doesn't improve response or acceleration.
- In some cases, the power may be increased, but it's just back to its original power.
But it's also important to get back to your original power.
- A motorcycle increases in conduction resistance over time.
It has the effect of reducing conduction resistance without modifying the body of the vehicle.
- It probably won't have any effect on a race car that has to be serviced in its entirety on every run.
- If the vehicle had increased conduction resistance, the lights may be brighter, the cell motor may turn more strongly, and the ignition spark may be stronger and the engine may perform better.
So the Earthing works! It's not just about ......, it's also about the fact that it's good to have good continuity with maintenance and other things.
Also, it is pointless to provide 200 return paths for a component that requires 100 electricity.
Come on.The decision-making process is now in place.
It's up to you to decide what to do.
What do you want to do?
A bonus: my case.
Basically, I'm a 'I don't want to be an archer.'
I'm a big believer in eliminating unnecessary equipment whenever possible, and I don't add trendy parts like phone mounts and machined bar ends because I don't want to add unnecessary wiring to add weight.
But for my old 1993 car.It has been arced.
Specifically, the wiring for the cell motor has been strengthened, and one wire has been pulled directly from the battery for grounding (this is what is called "arching"), and on the positive side, wiring has been added at each section of the battery → starter relay → cell motor.
This was a measure to whip up a cell motor that was struggling to start, and it actually worked quite well.
However, it has the adverse effect of causing severe pain inside the cell motor as a result of the high current flow.
We are prepared to shorten the life of expensive cell motors.
Conversely, other places, for example, to enhance ignition.No arching is done to the cylinder head.
The reason is that the spark is powerful to begin with, even if you don't have to do any arthing.
As with this article, you don't have to be told by someone to implement or stop it, but you can do a lot of thingsYou can try.I think.
It worked, it didn't work, it didn't work, it doesn't matter either way.
If it doesn't work, that's fine (just remove it), and if it works, it's just more fun to think about what you're going to do afterwards.
That's one way to enjoy a bike.I think so, though.
This is especially true if you're the kind of person who reads this article to the end.
However, I'm not sure about the ground wire sticking out of the negative terminal of the battery like an octopus foot with all the additions.
It's simply not cool, and even the increased weight of the wiring is not ridiculous.
It's also less serviceable, and if you don't put it together well, it increases the chances of positive wiring and shorts.
Besides, if you're going to go that far, I think it's smarter to maintain the body side of the car to ensure continuity.
It's hard to say, though, because everyone has different values in this area.