Proactively Flush the Engine Oil When You Notice it is Too Dirty.

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There are many sliding parts on a motorcycle, not just inside the engine, where metal parts rub against each other. When the engine has not been ridden for a while, dirt and sludge often accumulate inside the crankcase and engine cover, and if the dirt is not removed thoroughly, the oil tends to become cloudy early in the riding season, even after an oil change. The new engine oil will be ruined. Here I will report on the effective and engine-friendly practice of flushing.

Worth doing if you have a pre-20th century motorcycle.

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Frictional resistance is the key to improved engine performance, longer engine life, and better operation of the sliding parts of the vehicle. If frictional resistance is reduced, the performance of the motorcycle will improve steadily, and the rider will be able to feel the difference. With the boom in out-of-print motorcycles, many models from the 70's and 80's are making their way back to their hometowns, and it's no wonder that motorcycles that have been exported to other countries can have over 50,000 miles on the meter. On the other hand, if it was a low-mileage motorcycle, it could have been asleep for many years. In any case, cleaning the inside of the engine will have no small positive effect.

Cleaning agents that are not detergent or solvent-based

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Flushing Zoil has been developed by combining a high purity naphthenic & paraffinic base oil with enhanced flushing performance. By adding Super Zoil ingredients to the base oil for flushing, it has a reliable cleaning ability while improving the lubricating performance of metal surfaces. The characteristic of this product is that the Flushing Zoil wraps around the dirt inside the engine that has been scraped off and discharges it.

Start work after engine warm-up

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Since this is a motorcycle that has been used on a regular basis, you want to warm up the engine, ride it for a while, drain the engine oil and oil filter, and then tilt the motorcycle from side to side to drain as much of the old engine oil as possible before starting work. The drain bolt is located in the center of the oil pan in the crankcase. The size of the bolt is larger than modern motorcycles, and it is M20.

Effective even at the lower limit of oil usage injection

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After the engine is warmed up and riding well, and the old engine oil is drained out, start flushing by injecting about the "lower limit" to the specified amount of engine oil. You don't need to fill in the upper limit to get the full effect. Watching the dipstick or the level window, it is enough to fill to the "lower limit". After starting the engine, warm up the engine and ride at low rpm to promote the removal of dirt from the inside of the engine.

Do not over-inject the flushing oil.

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The amount of engine oil used is 3.4 liters, as indicated on the crankcase cover. It's the same as when you change the oil normally, but you don't need to fill it up to the maximum level, just between the minimum and maximum level. This time, I prepared 3 bottles of Flushing Zoil, so I put 3 bottles and the level was as you can see.

Warm up the engine by riding at low rpm.

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I drained the engine oil and changed the oil filter. After the engine was started and warmed up, I went for a test ride around the national highway near the garage. The usual test ride course is about 30km long and takes about 15 to 20 minutes. We don't want to rev the engine to a high rpm range, but rather to 3000-4000 rpm. Even at such a low rpm, a liter motorcycle is more than powerful enough to ride. Even if it's a Monkey, take it easy and don't rev it to high rpm. All maintenance is at your own risk.

Immediate extraction after flushing

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Flushing can be done at idle or low idle, but if the motorcycle has a main stand, warm up the engine while shifting into each gear, not just holding neutral. The increased resistance of shifting gears will obviously increase the flashing effect. Even so, it is not recommended for long trips or long distances. This should be done at your own risk. After the engine has warmed up, remove the drain bolts and oil filter before the engine cools down and remove the flushing oil.

When you do an oil change, be sure to replace the drain gasket or check it thoroughly before reusing it. In this case, it was a crush-type steel gasket like a spark plug washer, so I used pliers to remove it from the bolt threads and replaced it with a new aluminum drain gasket. The drain washer never needs to be a genuine manufacturer part. Packing washer" that matches the thread size/You can use "gasket washer". In order to be able to cope at any time, you should have gasket washers from M8 to M14 on hand (if you are a self-proclaimed sun mechanic). The large drain washer this time was on hand by chance.

POINT
  • Point 1: Start the engine and warm it up thoroughly before draining the current engine oil.
  • Point 2: When flushing, drain the engine oil in the oil filter case.
  • Point 3: Keep the level between the lower and upper limits when injecting engine oil, not just flushing oil.
  • Point 4: When draining the oil after flushing, drain it thoroughly and replace the drain gasket with a new one when injecting new oil!

When you disassemble an engine that has been riding for many years, you will notice the dirt inside the engine. When the crankcase cover is removed, the dirt on the inside of the cover often catches people's attention before maintenance. Why does the inside of the engine get dirty? There are various factors. Here, we will explain the general mechanism of oil contamination.

If you ignore oil changes and continue to ride your motorcycle, oil performance will degrade and engine parts will not get the ideal lubrication. It's important to remember that there are promises such as "change the engine oil every 3000km. Engine oil has a limited shelf life, and if you continue to drive without changing the oil, the lubricating performance of the oil will deteriorate significantly. This will reduce the condition of the parts that are repeatedly subjected to sliding friction, and as the vehicle continues to ride, the parts will begin to wear. As the engine continues to ride, the parts begin to wear, and the dirt and iron powder from the wear can spread to every corner of the engine. As a result, the other engine parts are damaged as well. When this negative spiral occurs, the crankcase is filled with blow-by gas. In other words, the engine oil is exposed to the exhaust gas, which causes the engine oil to become dirty and the inside of the engine and engine parts to turn black.

Dirt in the engine settles out or adheres to the engine's inner walls. As a result, the parts turn black. When the engine is disassembled and the inner walls and various parts are dirty, it can be determined that the machine owner has been maintaining the machine poorly and has skipped oil changes. In addition, even though the mileage is not "excessive", the inside of the engine is sometimes dirty to the point of being cloudy. This is a problem caused by moisture contamination. The motorcycle is garage-kept and has not been ridden in the rain. The engine oil may become cloudy and emulsified. When this happens, the lubricating performance of the engine oil drops significantly. When we talk to such owners, we sometimes hear them say, "I can't ride the motorcycle in the cold winter, so I start the engine, make sure it's good, and then stop the engine without riding. As a matter of fact, this action leads to the worst-case scenario, so it is important to remember this.

After the engine is started and gradually warms up, water vapor comes out of the exhaust system. At this time, if you put your hand near the exhaust port, you can see that your fingertips are soaked with water. The explosive combustion of the air mixture creates a huge temperature difference between the exhaust gas and the surrounding area, and the water generated by the internal condensation blows out of the exhaust system. If the motorcycle is warmed up and driven, the water will be blown out of the exhaust system and it will become dry, but if the engine is stopped without being warmed up, the water will be blown out.

As you can see, the water in the exhaust system and inside the engine will remain, and the engine oil will become cloudy and emulsified with the water. Water will also accumulate inside the exhaust system, and this will lead to a negative spiral such as "rust holes in the exhaust system". In short, unless the engine and exhaust system are warmed up properly, water will remain in them. You may have seen a lot of water flowing out of the exhaust system of a motorcycle, but remember that this is also a sign that the motorcycle is in the process of warming up.

Unless the inside of a dirty engine is thoroughly cleaned and removed, oil stains will become noticeable relatively early on, even after an oil change. Flushing is one of the best ways to solve this problem. "The oil seems to be cloudy even though I haven't driven more than 1000km yet.

Many common flushing products contain detergent-based solvents, which can cause excessive engine revving during flushing and result in engine damage. Typical flushing products based on cleaning agents such as organic solvents are highly effective but have poor lubrication performance and can cause engine damage if used improperly. However, Flushing ZOIL is different. Super Zoil is added to naphthenic and paraffinic oils, which are highly effective at cleaning. While the flushing process cleans the inside of the engine, the Super Zoil ingredient also cares for the metal surfaces. This product does not need to be mixed with engine oil or other fluids, but only needs to be injected with Flushing Zoil. It can effectively clean the inside of the engine, so it is a good idea to use it when you are worried about oil contamination.

 
 
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