The left side blinker, radiator, and engine cover were severely damaged by the left side bump, and the parts as well. So, the feelings of the rider were also damaged. The engine oil flowed out of the crankcase cover that had been scraped off. There are a few steps to follow when replacing the engine cover, which you should keep in mind.
Don't forget to arrange peripheral parts.
The engine cover, which had been cracked (or rather scraped) by a fall while riding, was replaced with a new part rather than repaired. Other than the cover itself, the center cap which is the access point to turn the crankshaft and the ignition timing inspection window. In addition to the cover itself, the center cap, which is the access point for turning the crankshaft, and the ignition timing inspection window, as well as the O-rings for those caps and the gasket for the cover itself, were all new parts ordered and purchased. Sometimes we are so concerned about the cover being scraped off that we forget about the other necessary peripheral parts and skip ordering them. When ordering parts, you need to look at the parts list carefully and ask yourself what do you need.
Drain the engine oil and check the condition.
The engine cover has been scraped and a hole has been made in it, and engine oil has come out of the hole ......, which means that the inside of the cover is an engine oil environment. Before the cover replacement work, let's drain the engine oil and check the condition of the engine oil carefully. Is there a large amount of foreign matter or shiny aluminum powder inside the oil? Be careful.
Remove the gear cover before removing the cover body.
The reduction gear of the cell starter (a.k.a. cell motor) is built into the cover on the upper right side of the crankcase. Remove the gear cover and reduction gear first, and then remove the cover itself. The gear cover and reduction gear must be removed first, and then the cover itself can be removed. Once the cover body is removed, the alternator stator coil can be found inside the cover. The permanent magnet flywheel is installed on the crank end facing outward.
Idle pinion goes to engine side.
When the cover body was removed, the idle pinion and pinion shaft came off with the inside side of the cover, so the shaft and gear were pulled out from the cover side and set back to the designated point on the crankcase side. It is better to set them to the engine side for better workability when restoring.
I dare you to proceed without removing the harness.
The alternator (alternator generator) harness that tightens to the cover is not long. It is troublesome to pull out the coupler to replace the cover and make the stator coil stand alone. So I prepared a small workbench and proceeded with the procedure of removing the stator coil from the shaved cover and installing the coil into the new cover.
Seal oil seepage by using a liquid gasket together
After transplanting the stator coil to the new crankcase cover, remove the liquid gasket debris from the rubber grommet at the harness extraction area. Then, I applied the right amount of silicon liquid gasket newly. If you don't do this part properly, you may have problems with oil seepage later on. There is an oil gallery (main lubrication passage) inside the crankcase cover, and the Torx bolt drain was tightened to the cover. In other words, it is a Torx bolt to prevent tampering. This drain bolt & drain gasket came tightened to the new cover, so I checked the torque just in case. Once the alternator is transplanted (use thread locker on the tightening bolts), restore the cover to the crankcase, but apply a thin layer of liquid gasket near the upper and lower case mating area on the gasket surface to prevent oil seepage. The crankcase joint is also an area that is prone to oil seepage. It is important to maintain the crankcase.
It is strange that the engine cover, which was shaved and had a hole in it, looks so beautiful when it becomes a new part. After all, a motorcycle should be beautiful. The center plug of the crankcase cover, the ignition timing check plug, and O-rings were all replaced with new parts.
- Point 1: If the inside of the replacement part is immersed in engine oil, drain the engine oil before work to check for foreign matter.
- Point 2: Cover replacement practice on the workbench without removing the stator coil for efficient work progress without waste.
- Point 3: Since you don't know where the engine oil oozes from, use a liquid gasket in combination with the minimum necessary parts!
- Point 4: When ordering replacement parts, be sure to check the parts list so that you do not forget to order peripheral parts!
Here I report how the left crankcase cover was replaced. It is important to note that the crankcase cover is not the only part to be purchased when replacing parts. In this case, the center cap and the ignition timing check cap that is built into the left crankcase cover were also replaced at the same time. Along with that, O-ring for each cap and gasket for the cover body were also replaced.
When you drain the engine oil, make sure that there is no glittering metal powder (in this case, aluminum shavings) mixed in with the oil. In order to be able to do such a visual inspection, you should prepare a clean tray (suitable for the capacity) to catch the wasted oil, not a dirty one. In this case, I was told that the engine stopped immediately after the fall and has not been started since then. Even if the shaved aluminum powder got into the engine, the oil pump would not have sucked up the aluminum powder and sent it to each part of the engine because the engine has not been started since then. When you want to inspect the removed engine oil, prepare a large PET bottle (PET bottle) such as shochu (distilled spirit) or windshield washer fluid, lay the bottle down with the cap tightened, and make a spout on the side of the bottle to receive the oil. By peeking at the received oil through the transparent PET bottle, you can visually inspect the glittering shine of the oil, even if aluminum powder or scraped-off metal is deposited.
The impression of the motorcycle has changed a lot because the engine cover became beautiful. This time, the cover replacement was done on the work table placed on the side of the engine because we wanted to proceed efficiently. The stator coil generates heat during power generation, so it gets hot during operation. Also, if the bolts are loosened, it will be big trouble, so let's apply the right amount of thread loosening prevention agent to the bolts. When the old chemical is adhered to the threads of the removed bolt, clean the threads with a wire brush and then apply the appropriate amount of new chemical. Then use a torque wrench to tighten the screws to the specified torque, and you're all set.
