Webike "Review" is a collection of the real voices from riders who tried to purchase products on our site. You can submit any motorcycle products and custom parts that is handle by Webike, and we're giving away up to 500 points that can be used for shopping with Webike to users who post their review.We've taken the liberty of picking out some "good" review from the period October 10 to October 16, 2020, and we'd like to share them with you!
This week's pickup review
High-performance rear shocks that match the high cost
We have always been satisfied with the use of high performance shock absorbers such as OHLINS. I am aware of this.
I put a set of 5 nitron front 2 rear 2 side 1's made by Nitron, which just came out last year on the Ural sidecar, into a stress relieving omega, and I put 5 into a machine with a side car, which is a heavyweight and athletic thing. Partly because my initial expectations were low, but I was completely enchanted by the supple behavior of the machine as it stopped slamming around. Not a bad thing, really, made by Nitron, either!
Even the CT125 Hunter Cub had a Nitron rear shock absorber for the ADV150, so I was hoping it would come out sooner rather than later! I ordered it right away.
Black in the Urals/I put it all together in black for a more relaxed look, and the Kochs are gold./Turquoise for a flashy look. It looks great and it's really not bad.
Mounting is done with 17mm nuts on the left. It was easy to remove 14mm and adjust the ride height to the same length as OEM. In fact, the Daytona left saddlebag support interfered further with the Daytona left saddlebag support, so additional DIY work was required.
On the right is the removal of a set of silencers. Remove the back 12mm bag nut with a spectacle wrench, pull out the middle cover with a push rivet and tapping out the back side, then pull it out and remove the mounting bolt.
In the front, remove the underguard (HEX 5mm x 4), remove the exhaust pipe mounting bolts (12mm x 2) and remove the silencer. After that, the top is a 19mm open-end wrench or pliers wrench. Below is a 14mm cap nut as well.
When installing a complete set of silencers, back, front, and middle, in that order.
I'll also assemble the included front fork preload adjuster (3mm+2mm metal spacer). Loosen the pinch bolt (HEX 5mm) next to the fork cap (17mm). Remove the cap while holding it down so it doesn't pop out.
The fork oil and other components were left in place this time because the distance was not extended. After a certain amount of riding, change to high performance fork oil such as ASH or the cap O-rings need to be changed. Put the adjuster in, turn it while holding the cap, and fasten it. The pinch bolts are tightened up and the fork inner tubes and rear shock piston rod are sprayed with fluoride oil.
So, I did a light off-road ride around the neighborhood today, including a light off-road ride.
Hmm, not bad at all! Is it a little hard when you start riding? However, he is very supple without being vulgar in the gaps. It's very safe and stable in the corners. I've been driving my piston into the flat dirt to a little rough dirt, but it's just for fun ohm. I felt it wasn't bad, but since I'm already too clunky, I'll let someone else rate it on off-road.
It's certainly a good price, but it's a supremely reasonable price to pay for high performance, so make it cheaper! I'm not saying that, omega.
It's far better than being served up a garbage product as a result of reduced costs. I'm satisfied with the fact that they have produced a high quality rear shock absorber for the CT125 Hunter Cub, even though it is the lowest grade of R1, so please keep up the quality in the future! Mr. Nitron.
Thank you for this wonderful review, Umemura! We are giving away 1,000 points to spend on your purchases at Webike!
Webike has prepared a content "Review" that collects the reviews and opinions of such senior riders. We're giving away up to 500 points for every impression you post, so we're waiting for your "real voice"!