Happy and Love to Own and Have on Hand Carburetor Maintenance Tool

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Various tools are essential for any maintenance practice. Is it possible to get by with just onboard tools? We are sometimes asked such questions as "Can I get by with just on-board tools? If you know how to maintain your car, you would never think, "Let's repair it with onboard tools! If you know the ins and outs of carburetor maintenance, you would never think "Let's repair it with on-board tools!
Here, we will focus on "useful tools and tools" that can be used smoothly when performing carburetor maintenance, repairs, disassembly, and cleaning work if they are on hand.

Ease of use dedicated to carburetor maintenance

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As you know, there are various types of screwdrivers. For example, a No. 3 size + (plus) screwdriver is the size of a pan screw, which is used to tighten the crankcase cover and clutch cover of old cars. In other words, we should know that the "largest size + screwdriver" is the size that is realistically used in motorcycle maintenance.
Incidentally, even with the same No. 3 + screwdriver, the touch feeling to the groove differs depending on the manufacturer, so many veteran sun mechanics do not necessarily stick to the manufacturer's uniformity, as they say, this one for this place and this one for that place. The product used here is from Straight, which mainly handles tools for automobiles & motorcycles. This carburetor screwdriver is a product developed for disassembling and assembling carburetors. It is an insert/remove type with two different thickness flathead screwdrivers back-to-back.
In addition to the thickness of the shaft, the tip of the flathead screwdriver is not tapered but parallel, which prevents the screwdriver from scraping the various jet grooves and makes it easier to transmit power. The screwdriver is a dedicated screwdriver with a straight shaft setting that provides better access to the jet, which is tightened deeper into the machine and allows for easy removal and attachment, which is really nice.

Not a fuel tank, commonly known as a drip

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During carburetor maintenance, the final step is to pour fuel into the carburetor and check for overflow and leakage seepage. In such cases, it is a good idea to use a special drip tank, commonly known as a drip tank. Regardless of whether it is a single-cylinder or a 4-cylinder carb, the correct method is to pour fuel into the assembled carburetor Assy and perform various inspections, instead of installing it on the engine side manifold and starting the inspection. In particular, the 4-cylinder carburetor is difficult to install just by installing it in the motorcycle. After assembly, when fuel is finally poured in, it drips. To avoid such a situation, it is better to pour fuel into the motorcycle and inspect it thoroughly before assembling it. In addition, fresh fuel and a clear view of the inside of the tank allow for reliable control of the presence of debris. Many of the problems that prevent overflows from stopping are actually caused by dirt and rust inside the fuel tank. There is actually a good chance that impurities are trapped in the float valve and causing an overflow. Is the condition of the inside of the tank OK?

The power of the tiny pick tool is impressive.

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Many SAN-meca engineers must have experienced black parts popping out from behind the screw holes when they remove various screws and blow air inside the passages. In many cases, gaskets remain stuck to the back of the screw or to the tightening seat surface of the removed parts, and they peel off and blow away as soon as compressed air is blown on them. To prevent this from happening, a special tool to remove the O-rings and gaskets stuck at the bottom of the screw holes is this tiny pick-up tool. It is also a product developed and manufactured independently by the tool store Straight.

Too much poking = failure.

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The overwhelming majority of motorcycles that have been immobilized for some time have clogged passages in the carburetors due to contamination from deteriorated fuel. Such clogged passages and various jets must be dissolved and vented with chemicals. However, if the dirt is too heavy, it is often difficult to vent. In such cases, a tool for pitting called a jet reamer comes in handy. But make no mistake, this reamer should not be used in the wrong way. In particular, it is not a good idea to insert the reamer too far and hodgepodge it into the hole number holes of the various jets that control fuel flow, or into holes that are transverse to the main bleed hole passage. Use the reamer only for ventilation purposes. In other words, the correct procedure is to keep venting to the minimum necessary, and then dissolve, break down, and clean the dirt with cleaning chemicals. Excessive hogging of the passages leads to symptoms such as dense gas even though the jet number is normal. I'm not sure what the standard is when it comes to this.
If you notice something is obviously wrong, do not use that jet. Another useful thing to have when cleaning is an air gun with a replaceable nozzle tip. You will notice that ultra-fine nozzles make carburetor maintenance remarkably easy to work with.

Fine-tuning of the screw shows its power.

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During the carburetor setting stage, various screws are turned for adjustment. The screws that are tightened on the sides of the carburetor can be easily adjusted with a regular screwdriver or the screwdriver for the carburetors mentioned above. However, in the case of the pilot screw tightened on the engine side at the bottom of the carburetor, which adjusts the flow rate of the mixture of fuel and air, it is often inaccessible with a normal screwdriver or even a stubby screwdriver with a short overall length. A special tool called an angled screwdriver is useful in such situations. The straight set uses bevel gears and converts the drive angle by 90 degrees. We have experienced many times before, not only in carburetor maintenance but also in other situations where this tool improves work efficiency.

Difference between static and dynamic oil surfaces

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The key to carburetor maintenance is adjusting the float level. If the float level is too high, it can cause overflow, and if it is too low, it can cause the carburetor to run out of gas when the throttle is first opened.

The float height = float level is adjusted to prevent such a thing from happening.
The basic idea is a static adjustment.
If there are ribs on the underside of the carburetor body and around the gasket surface of the float chamber, adjust the height from the edge of the ribs on the extension of the main jet to the underside of the float as per the data.
In a situation where the float valve spring is not retracted but is sticking out, adjust the float valve by bending the tongue that pushes in the float valve so that the end face of the float is lightly hit as per the set value.

As a side note, wear marks or dents on the tip of the valve needle that hit the adjustment tongue can get caught and prevent the float from operating. There have been many instances of this being the cause of overflow, so when the carburetor is disassembled, it is a good idea to check the condition of the float's tongue area and cut and polish it as necessary.
When disassembling the carb, it is a good idea to check the condition of the float and cut & polish it if necessary. When removing the hollow brass float, shake it close to your ear to make sure there is no whirring noise, as corrosion or punctures can allow fuel to enter the float and render it inoperable.

Photography by: straight

POINT

Point 1 - That's what it means to be called a dedicated tool.

Point 2 - The secret of success is not to overwork and not to damage the component itself.

Point 3 - Sunday mechanic that I think is necessary because I use it occasionally.

Various tools are indispensable for reliable maintenance and practice. As you know, there is a big difference between the tools used in a motorcycle and those made by tool manufacturers sold in the general market, even if they play the same role as an open-end wrench (often called a wrench in general). In-vehicle tools should be considered "for emergency measures when you get into trouble on the road".

It is not enough to have high-precision, easy-to-use tools at hand; we want to use tools and instruments that are specialized or special tools in key areas. For example, removing the front and rear wheels from the front and rear suspension can be done with ordinary tools. However, beyond that, disassembling parts, as example, a bearing puller is needed to remove bearings. A bearing puller set would also be necessary to accommodate axle shaft diameters of various thicknesses. For example, for the moped class, the inner diameter is Φ12mm or Φ15mm. For medium to large size class, you will need a tip tool that can handle bearing inner diameters of Φ17/20/25mm, etc.
Experienced Sun-mechs will definitely have a bearing puller set.

One of the parts that are somewhat unique is the carburetor. Many models introduced after the beginning of the 21st century are equipped with fuel injection systems, but for the Sunday mechanic, the carburetor will probably be with him or her for many years to come. Here we will take a look at some special tools and equipment that are useful, and definitely worth using when maintaining such carburetors. Sometimes, during maintenance, a bolt does not loosen and is almost nipped off, or a screw groove is nipped off, etc. Sometimes, during maintenance, things go wrong.
In order to avoid such unforeseen situations, special tools can be a reassuring ally in a variety of situations, just by owning them.

One of the most important points to keep in mind when performing such maintenance is never to force the throttle valve. When disassembling a carburetor, warm up the carburetor body using an industrial handy heater before disassembling it and proceeding with the work. In such disassembling work, it is important to warm up the carburetor body before disassembling using an industrial handy heater.

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