Chain Length is Adjustable with Special Tool | Do You Buy the Drive Chain as a STD Link to Cut Afterwards?

0009.jpg How to

A drive chain gradually elongates as it is subjected to shocks when accelerating and decelerating and as it travels over a long distance. When replacing a chain that has been stretched to the limit of its adjustment, you can be sure to replace it with the OEM link count, but if you don't know the link count of your motorcycle, you may need to replace it with a new chain. If you are changing the number of teeth on the sprocket, you can buy a STD chain sold by the chain manufacturer and use it. It is possible to adjust it to fit the actual motorcycle.

If you set the secondary reduction ratio to long, you may not be able to reach it.

0010.jpg If there is too much play in the chain, pull the rear tire axle shaft backwards to reduce deflection. However, if the chain is stretched too much, it will not be able to pull within the range of the chain adjuster. When this happens, it is time to replace the drive chain. Drive chain elongation is caused by the wear of the pins that connect the links, and as the pins wear, the pitch between the sprocket and the roller that engages it gradually increases. As the pin wears, the pitch between the sprocket and the roller gradually widens, and the sprocket side also wears, so it may be better to replace the sprocket at the same time when replacing the chain.

From mopeds to big motorcycles, the chain drive has always been the mainstream means of transmitting the driving force of the engine to the rear wheel. Nowadays, the majority of small and larger models on the market are equipped with a sealed chain as standard equipment, and the life of the chain is considerably longer if proper maintenance is performed.

Nevertheless, the drive chain, which rotates with metal parts touching, rubbing and pulling against each other, will one day need to be replaced. When the chain stretches, the pitch at which the sprockets engage widens, and the sprockets may need to be replaced. If you are replacing the stock steel sprockets with aluminum ones, be aware that the speed of wear may be faster.

When replacing the drive chain, it is important to know the number of links (frames). If the drive sprocket and the drive sprocket have the normal number of teeth, get a chain with the standard number of links for that model. On the other hand, if you have changed the number of teeth on the sprocket, the number of links may vary.

Whether it is a drive sprocket or a drive sprocket, increasing the number of teeth will increase the number of links required, while decreasing the number of teeth will decrease the number of links. If you increase the number of teeth on the drive sprocket, the speed will increase for the same number of gears and engine speed. This has the same effect as reducing the number of teeth on the drive sprocket.

On the other hand, if you reduce the number of teeth on the drive sprocket, the speed will not increase for the same number of gear steps and engine speed, i.e. in the direction of increased acceleration. This has the same effect as increasing the number of teeth on the drive sprocket.

At this point, the position of the chain adjuster is key. If the axle shaft is in the middle of the adjustment range and can be moved forward or backward, it may be able to accommodate the change in tooth count. However, if the adjuster is closer to the front, the chain may not be able to reach the drive sprocket if the number of teeth is increased. If this is the case and you still want to reduce the secondary reduction ratio, reducing the number of teeth on the drive sprocket may allow you to change the secondary reduction ratio without having to change the chain.

On the other hand, if you want to increase the secondary reduction ratio and change the characteristics to emphasize acceleration, reducing the number of teeth on the drive sprocket will result in an excess number of links in the chain. However, if the chain adjuster is pulled all the way back and there is still too much play in the chain, increasing the number of teeth on the drive sprocket may allow the adjuster to be used within the proper range.

Since the combination of these secondary reduction ratio changes depends on the mutual relationship between the front and rear sprockets and the drive chain, it is difficult to say to what extent the number of teeth can be changed without changing the number of links. Rather, the general rule is to make changes in the order of how you want the current feeling to be, how you will change the front and rear sprockets, and how many links you will need as a result of the changes.

POINT
  • Point 1: Chain-driven motorcycles can change the characteristics of the driving force by changing the secondary reduction ratio, which is the ratio of the number of teeth on the front and rear sprockets.
  • Point 2: The number of links in the drive chain may change from the stock number of links by changing the number of teeth on the front and rear sprockets.

Webike allows you to purchase drive chains by specifying the number of links.

0011.jpgEnuma Chien's EK420STD is a non-seal chain for the moped class. Ready-made chains are available in 100, 110, 120, 130, 140, and 250 links. Leisure motorcycles such as the Honda Monkey and Yamaha Chappy have more than enough for 100 links, but the Magna 50 has 100 links, and the NSR 50 may have 106/108 links.

0012.jpg If the front and rear sprockets are stock, you can order 88 links from Webike and install them without adjustment, but I bought 100 links off the shelf and will adjust the length. Slide the axle shaft to the front end of the adjuster range, hang the chain, and cut so that the inner links butt against each other. The chain appears to be slack at the swingarm, but if we tighten the chain by two more links, the play will be reduced too much and it will affect the stroke of the rear shock, so we will joint it like this and adjust the play with the adjuster.

If the front and rear sprockets have the stock number of teeth, then the number of links in the drive chain to be replaced will also be as stock. The number of links in your motorcycle's chain can be found in parts lists, on the Internet, or by actually counting the drive chain on your vehicle.

In addition to counting the inner and outer link plates, the links of a chain can also be found by counting the number of pins in the links. You can get an accurate count of the number of links by checking the pins at the joint with a marker pen, and counting the number of pins while slowly rotating the tire. Since there are two pins pressed into each link, the total number of links will always be an even number.

Although there are differences between chain manufacturers, commercially available chains are sold with a number of links that is as close as possible to 100, 110, 120, or 130 links ....... In contrast, the number of links in a motorcycle body varies from vehicle to vehicle. For example, the 50cc Honda Monkey of the carburetor era has 72, 74, or 76 links depending on the year, and the Yamaha Chappy shown in the photo has 88 links.

For such models, the number of links does not match the standard commercial products, so some adjustment is necessary. In such cases, the shopping page of Webike, where this article is published, comes in handy. Here, you can purchase products from various chain manufacturers by specifying the number of links. In the case of Enuma Chain's 420 size standard chain, you can specify the number of links from 60 to 160 in two-link increments.

The specific procedure for adjusting the number of links will be described later, but if you can purchase a specific number of links, you will not need special tools such as chain cutters, and purchasing the number of links you need may be more reasonable than purchasing standard links because there will be no wasted links left over after cutting.

POINT
  • Point 1: Ready-made chains are sold with a standard number of links, regardless of the number of genuine links.
  • Point 2: Webike's shopping site allows you to specify the number of links in a chain to purchase.

There is also a way to buy a standard number of links and then use chain cutters to match the actual links.

0013.jpg After determining the cut position, use the chain cutter to push out the link pin. Since the pin is clamped at both ends, a special tool is required even for the 420 size moped class. The tool shown in the photo can do everything from cutting to clamping the seal chain, and there is also a reasonably priced chain cutter that specializes in cutting only.

0014.jpg When adjusting the number of links, it is important to cut at a position where the end is on the inner plate. It is possible to pull out the pin next to the cut position in the image, but that will not set the joint.

0015.jpg Since this is a non-seal chain for the moped class, the joint link provided is of the clip type. The seal chain incorporates a rubber seal between the outer and inner plates, and since the assembly width is also important, the plates are press-fitted and secured by clamping pins. Therefore, a special chain tool is used to assemble the joint.

0016.jpg After connecting the chain with the joint link, fit the clip so that the closed U-shaped side faces the direction of travel. If the clip is not tightly fastened, it may fall off while riding, causing the chain to come off. Once the clip is in place, it is also effective to use a wire lock with a stainless steel wire.

0017.jpg After aligning the left and right chain adjusters, put a screwdriver, T-handle, or rag between the chain and sprocket and rotate the tire. This will pull the axle shaft forward and eliminate the small amount of play in the adjuster, so tighten the axle nut.

If the front and rear sprockets have the stock number of teeth, you can simply purchase a chain with the standard number of links listed in the parts list. However, as explained at the beginning, if you are changing the secondary reduction ratio, or want to change it at the same time as replacing the chain, the stock number of links may be insufficient. In such a case, purchase a ready-made product with a standard number of links, and adjust the number of links to match the current vehicle.

Specifically, set the axle shaft at the front end within the range of the chain adjuster, and hang the drive chain on the front and rear sprockets to match the length at just the right link. It is important to note that the chain on the side to be matched in length should be cut at the point where the inner link remains. If you cut the chain at the point where the outer link remains just because the length is right, you will not be able to install the joint link that will be the joint. This is obvious if you think about it for a moment, but if you concentrate only on getting the chain over the sprocket teeth and matching the length, you may overlook something that is structurally obvious.

Chain cutters, a special tool to remove the pins of the caulked links, are required to cut the chain. There are two types of chain cutters: those that simply cut the chain, and those that can press-fit the joint plate and caulk the pins, which is necessary for sealing chains. The size of the tool depends on the size of the chain, such as 420, 428, 520, 530. The range of sizes that can be handled varies from product to product, so it is important to get the right tool for your motorcycle's chain size.

Compared to purchasing a chain with a specified number of links, adjusting the length of the chain by yourself requires an extra cost in the form of tools. However, for vehicles equipped with sealed chains that use caulk-type joints, even if you specify the number of links and save yourself the trouble of cutting, you will still need a special tool to caulk the pins in the joint. If you think about it, cutting is easy even if you buy a ready-made product with a standard number of links.

Replacing the drive chain is a safety-critical operation. Although replacement chains and special tools are readily available, it is important to realize that sufficient prior knowledge and caution are essential to perform the job correctly and safely.

POINT
  • Point 1: If the number of teeth on the sprocket has been changed from the stock number of links, purchase an off-the-shelf product and adjust it to match the actual product.
  • Point 2: Special tools used for cutting chains and caulking seal chains need to be handled motorcycle fully.
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