MOTO HACK: CB250R Wide and Low Stock Handlebar Modification for a One Rank Up Look

11302eye.jpg Customized Motorcycle

Introducing the custom motorcycle that has been submitted to the Webike Community "MOTO HACK Custom Motorcycle Contest" campaign!

Meet the custom motorcycle from TT-R who rides the CB250R.

Vehicles and self-introduction

[Introduce yourself and your motorcycle]
I've been riding motorcycles for a really long time. I don't even know how many motorcycles I've changed. I have been downsizing my motorcycle accordingly. I have downsized my motorcycle accordingly, but I bought a lighter motorcycle as my second motorcycle. I am thinking to use it as my main motorcycle in the future.

Customization of the particulars

It's a hassle, but I want to modify the stock handlebars first. This is because I believe that if I can make the width a little narrower, it will make it less uncomfortable.

[Directionality]
At a glance, it looks "stock", but if you look closely, you'll see that it's been modified with a lot of work. and the enthusiast will be impressed.

Custom Points

The handling is awfully wide and low. Perhaps many owners feel uncomfortable and want to "do something" about it? Some things don't bother you as you get used to the motorcycle, but the handlebars affect the handling, so you want to make sure you're happy with them. The quickest way to do this is to replace the handlebars, but first I thought I'd do something about the stock handlebars that are too wide.

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Remove the handle. The first step in modifying the handlebar is to remove the stock bar ends. You can distinguish some articles where the stock bar end is pinched and removed by force, but the bolt here can be removed in one shot with an impact wrench. But you can remove the bolt with impact wrench. Individuals probably don't have impact wrenches, so it's best to have your favorite motorcycle shop remove it. It's a job that takes only a few seconds. If I ask a motorcycle shop to do this work and they don't do it, I'll stop dealing with them in the future.

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The next step is to remove the grip, which is done by inserting a thin, flathead screwdriver between the grip and the handlebar, and spraying lubricant. Then turn the screwdriver along the outer edge of the handle to separate the bond that is attached to the grip. Pull out the screwdriver and turn the grip, the remaining bond will peel off and the grip will come off easily.

The next step was to remove the seismic control bar (weight), which was probably the most difficult part. You can't pull it off and you can't spin it. The reason is that it prevents the clasp from coming off inside the handle, as shown in the image. Even if I try to pull it out, this clasp is pulled into the hole and it won't come out. When I turn it, only the bar inside turns, and the clasp doesn't shift. You should be able to pull it out while holding this clasp, but since there are two clasps on the top and bottom, two hands are not enough to pull it out while holding the two clasps. So what to do?

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The image shows the clamp of the seismic control bar that was removed, and the tip of the pointed metal cap is pressed into the handle, and the tip of the pointed metal cap is driven over the hole to flatten the clamp. If you bust the clamps on the top and bottom two holes and flatten them out, the vibration control bar will come loose just by pulling. If the rubber inside resists, pull it out with a little force. Of course, the bar end is temporarily fixed, and pull it out with the bar end.

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The next step was to cut the handlebar. I wanted to cut off 20mm on each side, but the stock Fat Bar handlebars are tapered from the middle, so cutting them longer would make it harder to attach brake lever holders. So I compromise and cut about 16mm. When cutting the handle with a metal saw, put a circle of tape around the area you want to cut. This is because curved handles can't be placed straight, so it's difficult to cut them off vertically and they tend to be slanted.

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Once the handle is cut, the next step is to drill the holder's non-turning hole. Drill a 5mm hole 16mm inside. Here too, first put masking tape on the place to be vacated, mark it with a magic marker on it, make a recess with a punch, and then drill a small hole with a 2mm drill, then a 5mm drill. The reason for putting masking tape on the place where you punch is to prevent the punch from shifting from the round handlebar.

Sand the cut handlebar end and the drilled hole and apply a touch-up to prevent rust.

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Install the cut and shortened handle. The mounting angle should be raised slightly above the standard position. It was more comfortable for me, and in the standard position, when I turned the handlebar all the way to the left, the indicator button made contact with the gas tank.

After tightening each part, check the position. When you straddle the motorcycle and grip the handlebars, you get the impression that the motorcycle has become more compact. With the narrower handlebar width and the handlebars coming up, it's closer to a natural position for me.

- Test Ride
I test ride about 70km including the pass. It is comfortable. It is easy to drive on the mountain pass. It is banked more deeply, and the tire is used to the edge. I still think the stock was too wide for me. It was a painstaking mod, but I'm so glad I did it!

Now, what did I do with the seismic control bars (weights), I took them away. For the CB250R, where lightweight is essential, the seismic damping material weighing over 800g on each side is too heavy. Theoretically, if you remove it, the vibration will increase, but for me it is acceptable. Vibration is also generated on the body and steps, so the effect of vibration control on the handlebar is limited.

Now, when the vibration control bars are removed, the heavy stock bar ends don't attach either.

So let's add a lightweight bar end.

 [Summary / Points ]

If you choose for lightness, Kijima's "Bar End Cap Nylon" in black. Kijima's "204-110" is the one that fits the forward steel handlebar. 

If you want to be a little more fashionable, you can choose the one made of aluminum and the same color as the body color.

The key to choosing the right one is to match the inside diameter of the handlebar. The handlebar has a different inner diameter for aluminum and steel. When you put it on the stock iron handlebar, it is the one with the larger inner diameter.

 Customization I would like to do in the future

As the CB250R is a lightweight machine, replacing the heavy stock exhaust system with a lightweight external exhaust system can save 3 to 4 kg. It is important to consider the weight, design, and price of the exhaust replacement.

Thanks for participating in our custom motorcycle contest, TT-R! You will receive 500 points to use at Webike! 

*The articles on MOTO HACK are composed and reprinted from user contributions. The effects and methods described are at the discretion of the user, and Webike is not responsible for any problems that may occur.

See HONDA Moto Index Page
See Accessories for HONDA CB250R

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