Recommended Custom Parts for Enduro! Part 1: Parts to Protect Your Bike

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I'm an off-road rider who rides a KTM 250EXC-F and would like to introduce some parts that I myself installed when I started Enduro riding as well as some of our best-selling custom parts! I'll also include parts that are recommended for those who want to make their Enduro debut, so please take a look.

Parts that protect your bike from damage!

The most important thing is not to break your bike! So, the first thing I'd like to introduce are guards to protect your bike from falls and collisions. Enduro racing requires riding through untamed forests, streams, roads with rocks lying all over the place, steep hill climbs, and other terrain that can hardly be called a course. In such harsh conditions, falls and collisions are bound to occur. In order to cope with such incidents, guards for various parts of the bike are essential. The photo below shows the places on the bike where these parts are installed.

1. Hand Guards

Hand guards are available in various types and designs, and will be the part that shows your individuality. There are two general types: closed-ended and open-ended.

Advantages of the open-end type
- Lightweight, so there is little effect on handling.
- Since it attaches at a single point the handling does not become stiff.

Advantages of the closed-end type
- Protects the lever area in the event of a fall.
- Fingers will not get caught between the handlebar and a tree or rock.

I personally recommend the closed-end type for enduro riding, for the following reasons:
- It's less likely to break in the case of a fall or crashing into a tree.
- The handlebars do not get stuck in the ground.

As for my own experience, I once lost my motivation when my handlebar got stuck in the ground on a muddy course after taking a fall with open-ended hand guards. After consulting with a fellow racer, he told me that a closed-end type would be better because the handlebars wouldn't get stuck, so I immediately replaced mine. In the next race, the handlebar almost never got stuck in the ground, and I have been using the closed-end type ever since. Incidentally, there are two different hand guard clamp diameters: standard (22.2mm) and fat bar (28.6mm). If the entire handle is the same thickness, it is a standard bar, and if it is thicker in the middle, it is a fat bar. Sometimes custom bikes use a fat bar, so check before you buy a hand guard!

[ZETA] Armor Hand Guard

If you go to enduro races, you will surely see ZETA hand guards. They are made of a highly rigid aluminum alloy, which makes them heavier, but also one of the sturdiest among closed-ended hand guards. There are a wide variety of mounting parts that increase the freedom and strength of mounting. There are also optional protectors that increase the guard surface, and it is great to have a choice of functions and colors! I myself use them and they protect my hands and levers without bending even if I fall over or crash hard into a tree or rock.

[ACERBIS] TRI FIT Hand Guard

The amazing thing about this product is that it has four different mounting methods. For example, you can change the protection depending on the race conditions or your needs, such as for protection against rocks that get kicked up or protection for the levers in case of a fall. It is a very versatile hand guard. The all-plastic construction is inferior to metal in terms of strength, but the flexibility makes it excellent for shock absorption.

2. Brake and Clutch Levers

The brake and clutch levers can be protected to some extent by attaching hand guards, but they may break if they hit a rock or tree at a bad angle when you fall. A broken lever can have disastrous consequences, such as the inability to use the front brake or shift gears, resulting in you having to retire from the race. Here, I will introduce some foldable levers which can help you avoid such situations as much as possible.

[ARC] Composite Lever

ARC composite levers are used by top AMA Supercross riders. The use of a shape-memory material called MEMO1 prevents the lever from breaking and absorbs shock by bending. In addition, bent levers can be pushed back by hand.

[ZETA] Pivot Perch CP Clutch Lever

This lever is equipped with a clutch cable adjuster, allowing the clutch play to be adjusted while riding! The adjustment is made by turning the cross-shaped adjuster, and you can feel a small click each time you turn it a quarter-turn, so it is easy to tell even while riding. In addition, the weight of the clutch lever pull can be set to two levels (emphasis on sharpness and emphasis on lightness).

- Sharp setting: The clutch connection and sharpness are set so that the clutch bite point is clear, making it easier to lift the front tire and so on.
- Light setting: The clutch is lighter when the lever is pulled, which reduces fatigue.

3. Radiator Guards

If the radiator gets damaged you can no longer ride, so it is important to reduce the possibility of this happening as much as possible! For water-cooled engines, if the radiator is damaged, the engine will not be able to cool down and you won't be able to return to the race. In the worst case, it can also lead to overheating, which can destroy the engine. For enduro racing on rugged roads, a radiator guard is a must!

[AXP RACING] Radiator Guard

AXP RACING is famous for their durable parts that fit on bikes from around the world. This guard has a simple design consisting of aluminum plates and pipes, but the protection is perfect! Installation is a simple bolt-on, and does not require removal of the radiator. It is also light in weight and does not feel out of place after installed.

[P-TECH] Radiator Guard

P-TECH is an off-road parts brand that those in the know know very well. Their radiator guards are both artistic and practical to an extent not seen from other brands. I myself have used this product, and though it is heavy, since the plate is attached to the radiator in such a way that it surrounds it in all directions, the protection level is quite high. I would recommend it to anyone who absolutely does not want the radiator to break.

4. Brake Disk Guards

The worst thing that can happen to your brakes during enduro racing is a bent or distorted brake disc. This can happen in the following situations:

- Hit by a rock, tree, or other obstacle during a fall
- Hit by a rock or tree root while riding in a rut or on uneven terrain
- Hit by rocks kicked up by the tire

If the brake disc is bent or distorted, the brakes may become inoperable, which is very dangerous. To avoid such accidents, the brake disc guards introduced below are indispensable. They also serve to prevent mud and other debris from getting between the disc and the pads.

[POLISPORT] Disc/Bottom Fork Protector

POLISPORT is famous for its affordable exterior and repair parts. The set includes a disc protector and a bottom protector to prevent damage to the bottom of the fork; the two protectors can be used separately! As for installation, unlike conventional disc guards, it can be done easily without disassembling the wheel.

[ACERBIS] Front Disc Cover

ACERBIS disc covers come in three models: X-FUTURE, X-BRAKE, and X-BRAKE 2.0. Although most people choose the X-FUTURE for its design, the X-BRAKE 2.0 is the successor to the X-BRAKE and has an additional anti-fade vented feature.
*The "Model Specific Mounting Kit (sold separately)" is required for installation.

5. Underguards and Skid Plates

Underguards and skid plates are a necessity for off-road riding. Skid plates guard against belly slams that can occur when riding on rocky terrain or over obstacles such as logs, and they also prevent engine damage. There are two types of materials: resin and metal. Incidentally, for enduro racing, it is sometimes better to use resin-made parts to slide over difficult areas (logs, rocks, etc.).

Resin underguards
- Characteristic: Slides over rocks or logs without biting in
- Advantages: Lightweight, many different designs, do not deform easily
- Disadvantages: Not as strong as metal

Metal underguards
- Characteristic: Strongly protects the engine and frame
- Advantages: Sturdy and repairable
- Disadvantages: Heavy, deforms easily, makes resonating noise

[AXP RACING] Under Guard and Skid Plate

This AXP RACING skid plate is used by many enduro riders. Its main feature is that it is made of 8mm thick HDPE (high-density polyethylene), which is as durable and strong as metal. I used it myself and found the "sliding" characteristic very helpful to get over logs. I was also surprised that it did not deform at all, even though I belly slammed quite a lot of rocks.

[ACERBIS] Skid Plate

ACERBIS manufactures many stock parts and this "all-in-one mold skid plate" is manufactured using their advanced molding technology. The features of this skid plate are that there are no joints between plates to get damaged and that it is made to follow the shape of the frame, which allows maximum use of its sliding characteristics. The lightweight design allows it to be used without worrying about an increase in weight, and it combines practicality in racing as well as design.